Friday, August 7, 2009

The Sport Climbing Begins

Ashley climbing "Wotai."

We got out the rope and went sport climbing at Wild Iris and Sinks Canyon this week. It's difficult to get photos when you're either climbing or belaying, but I got our six year old daughter Sierra to take some.

With a little cropping, rotation, and brightness adjustment they turned out alright.

Some were unconventional, but interesting.

I haven't sport climbed for quite a while. So long that I wasn't sure what grades would be possible yet still push me. We warmed up on a 5.10d which felt alright. The second route we did was a 5.11c that really didn't feel much harder than the 510d. So for the third route I decided to take it up a notch or two and try a 5.13a.

Trying "When I Was a Young Girl, I Had Me a Cowboy."

I managed to get half way to the second bolt.

Ashley did some hanging on the first bolt too.

After a few more climbs we determined that 5.12 seems to be a good project grade for us right now. After years of bouldering and short gym routes, I'm not thrown by 5.12 cruxes, but my endurance is pretty weak.

The Aspen Glade Wall

On Thursday we had an afternoon of sport climbing at Sinks.

We warmed up and did a difficult toprope. Then I decided I wanted to try "Bush Doctor" a three star 75 foot 5.12a in the Killer Cave.

Ashley taking a look at "Bush Doctor."

It starts with a small roof.

Followed by good handjams and even a couple chimney moves.

Then overhanging pocket face climbing to a large roof, and more overhanging pockets. My endurance ran out near the roof.

The route is fantastic, and I can't wait to get back on it again. Ashley didn't get a full work out since she belayed a lot, so we went out this morning for a session at the Cabin boulders. We worked out all the moves on "Mo's Traverse" but didn't manage the link yet.

Sundance did some pretty impressive bouldering. She'll do anything to retrieve a thrown stick, even climb boulders.
Sundance reaching for a crimp.

Sundance approaching the top out.

Project completed.

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