Friday, August 19, 2016

Terra Incognita Interview, Wolverine Publishing, and End of Summer Photos

I've got news to share!

Terra Incognita did a thorough interview with me this week.  If you'd like to read the most complete synopsis of my thoughts on climbing ever recorded, check it out here.

Wolverine Publishing is now carrying my guidebook Bouldering in the Wind River Range.  If you'd like a copy of my greatest creative work to date, it's available here.

And summer vacation is over, but I got some great climbing in before returning to school.  Here are my favorite photos from the last few weeks described with short captions.

I got to watch Kian get the first ascent of Mother*^!^*@# Snakes at the Rock Shop.  It's a great looking line, and might be in the V8 range.  Please let me know if you get the second ascent.
 And I saw Chris get the first ascent of "The Conversation" at the White Stripes sector of Roaring Fork.

Kerrek had a great day at the White Stripes just a couple days later.
He got the 2nd ascent of "Knife Fight."

 Then he repeated "Switch Blade" and "The Conversation."

Ashley got the first ascent of "The Sabbatical" V8, at the White Stripes Sector.

Here's a shot I like of Alta and Kerrek starting the three mile hike out.

For my last big trip of the summer I spent 5 days at Devil's Kitchen with Jason.   I'm posting photos, and I'm not going to pretend they were taken elsewhere.  But be aware that access is sensitive.  Buy the Tribal Fishing and Trespass permit.  Get a tour from a local boulderer if you can, and try to be as discreet as possible.

Jason taught me how to take better photos of the stars.  Here's one that I like.
 We descended into the canyons of waterfalls and thick vegetation twice.
 And had a great time on the blocks of the lower kitchen.
 My family joined us for the last three days of the trip.  A highlight was when Ashley, Sierra, and I all climbed a line that might be called "Stripes" V7.
 Chris and Paco made the trip in too.  Paco is the happiest dog I've ever met.
 Devil's Kitchen is a special place.
 On a rest day I hiked to the summit of the granite island, and got an amazing view.
 On my way I found a few good blocks in a sector called the upper upper kitchen, and we went there on our last day.

Ashley warming up on the Triton boulder.

 I climbed "Triton" which one of the best V4s I've ever done.
 And Sierra climbed it too.
 Jason on the final morning of the trip.
On my last bouldering day of the break I worked on "Psychedelic Relic" at the Rock Shop. While I kept falling off the crux move, Ashley and Sierra both climbed "Inglorious Bastard" V7.
 The climbing's already been really good the last few weeks, and it's not even fall yet!








Sunday, July 31, 2016

Lives Interrupted

This wasn't an easy post to write.  And it won't be easy to read.  But I've gotten into the habit of recording my climbing life on this blog, and sometimes hard things happen.  Bouldering has shaped my life significantly and life events affect it in a mutual way.  The borders between my climbing and the rest of my life can be undefined and break down from time to time.  During the last few weeks I put up mental walls, and had those walls fall down again.

Our summer vacation was going along smoothly.  Joe visited from Denver and got out with us for some bouldering.  Based on what Joe's been climbing lately, I knew he'd enjoy "The Giving Tree."  He didn't quite send it, but he really liked the problem.  
Ashley and I still had one more line to try in the vicinity of the U.F.O.  Matt's problem "True Blood" V6/7.  We climbed the line, starting from a hanging position on the rail, but learned later that it was originally done from a lower sit start.  It's in a tight space, but it has interesting features and moves.  I'm continually impressed by how engaging these physical puzzles can be.
 Then a cold front came in and we got one morning of perfect fall temps!  I used the opportunity to work on "The Camera" V10.  Ashley got a full work out by traversing back and forth along the Camera Boulder, and Sierra had her first session on "Mr. Bigglesworth" V5.
The International Climbers' Festival began, and I'd signed up to help where I could.  I set up chairs and delivered prizes for the Legends and Lore event on Wednesday.  During one of the first talks of the event my phone started to vibrate. It was a call from my mom in upstate New York.  I left the building and learned that my dad's heart valve surgery wasn't going well.  The surgeon told my mom that she wasn't sure whether or not he'd survive.  I was quite upset by the phone call, but I'd volunteered to help with the Boulder Bash that night.  So I pushed thoughts of my dad out of my mind for a few hours and just focused on helping out at the Boulder Bash as if nothing else was happening.  The event went well, and I enjoyed watching everyone from beginner to pros test themselves on various problems from V0-V10.  I bouldered a bit myself, but found that even with a bunch of lights provided by Goal Zero I was falling off of normally easy top outs once it got dark.  I'd forgotten to bring a headlamp. 

Chelsea warming up before the sun went down.
 The next morning, I was happy to hear that my dad had made it through the night.  The surgeon was sounding optimistic that he might survive.  I was confident he'd make it too.  Despite the good news, I decided to buy a plane ticket to New York to be with my mother and siblings.  I'd fly out on Saturday.
But on Friday morning I learned that my father had died during the night of kidney failure.  Here's an obituary that my sister wrote.

That day happened to be the first day of Festival bouldering clinics, and I was signed up to give a tour.  Once again, I tried to push thoughts of my dad out of my mind, and focus on the task at hand.  I helped guide Jon's clinic around the Rock Shop.  Early in the day I sprained my wrist on an easy problem that I tried to quickly muscle through rather than taking time to figure out.  I don't think my entire mind was focused on climbing, and that probably caused the injury.  So I was forced to quit climbing for the session, and that allowed me to refocus on guiding clinic participants to problems I thought they'd enjoy. Jon did a great job of checking in with everyone, and clearly demonstrated what strong climbing looks like.  Here's a shot of him floating up "Sundance Kid."
The clinic went well.  I did some internet research when I got home. I was happy to see that wrist sprains usually heal well without requiring medical care, and then I packed for my trip to upstate New York early the next morning.  Kian agreed to guide the bouldering clinics I'd volunteered for on Saturday.

I drank a lot of coffee, drove to Denver, flew to Chicago, and then to Syracuse.  I had window seats the whole way.  The number of farms I flew over was staggering.  Each one just slightly different from the rest, covering vast flat plains and then gently rolling hills.  I remembered what now feels like another life, living in a small town in Iowa from the ages of 2 until 16.  All the dramas that played out in that landscape of industrialized agriculture.

I flew over Chicago, which looked like it was thriving, then over vast parts of Detroit that looked utterly abandoned.  The plane descended into Syracuse as the sun was setting.  And I had conflicted feelings as the sun lit up the smog filled air between two layers of clouds we were descending through to create one of the most beautiful scenes I've ever experienced.  I was disappointed that my camera was packed in the overhead bin, and I wasn't able to grab it.

The next few days were spent with family.  Reflecting on my dad's life, his death, and going through his things.  All of his stuff was meticulously organized, and stored together within bins reflecting specific interests within specific time periods of his life.  He'd been a photographer when I was young, developing black and white photos in a darkroom he set up.  He'd been an athlete during high school, playing football and hockey.  He had his fraternity years at Cornell, his years in the Peace Corps in Colombia, his ride back home from Panama on a motorcycle.
His years of working for the extension service in New York, years of working in "Big Time" agriculture in Iowa, years of owning Lloyd's Lake and Land sporting goods store, and time in New York semi-retired.  He spent the last couple decades growing food for his farmers market stand, cutting trees in the Adirondacks, mowing lawns, plowing snow, making maple syrup and selling class rings for some extra income.  He established a few strong connections with a few people, within each section of his life, and maintained those connections until he died.  

My reflection on his life, and things, put me into a mood that I can only label as existential.  I saw all the ways my dad had pursued meaning, productivity, and order within his life.  But whenever I left my parent's house, and observed the lawns, strip malls, small farm fields, small forested areas, and busy roads of upstate New York, I saw no meaning in any of it.  The area is well maintained, the businesses look successful, everything is green and growing.  It's obvious that people are working hard to make the area a better place.  Upstate New York isn't meaningless to the people that call it home, but it still felt empty of meaning, pointless, to me.  Opportunities for the types of adventure, discovery, and the personal growth that I've devoted myself to aren't there to be found.

Spending time with family for those few days was the most important thing in the world.  But soon it was time to return to Wyoming.  As I drove through the empty spaces, past Sweetwater Rocks, and the Wind River Range came into view, I had the strongest feeling of returning home that I've ever experienced.

The next day my wrist still hurt too much for me to really climb, but I brushed up new lines at the Rock Shop for Ashley and Sierra to climb.  It felt so good to be home, spending time in the mountains again with Ashley and our daughters.

Ashley on the first ascent of "Copperhead" V5.

Ashley and the girls had summer camps, an airbag recall, and other business to attend to down in Colorado the next day.  I stayed in Lander, painting our house, and cleaning up new lines at the Rock Shop.  Mid-week I was invited along for a trip to the Falcon's Lair.  It's rare to get a crew of seven boulderers all psyched to spend a full day alpine bouldering.  It was exciting to get back up there with Justin, Le, Tony, Skyler, Jason, and Kian.

A parade of pads hiking to the lower edge of the snowfield seen in the distance.

We did some exploration, and got started with some first ascents up a small roof.

Skyler getting the first ascent of "Sniper No Sniping."
But the established classics called as well.  "The Barnyard" got a few ascents.
Kian bagged the first do-rag ascent.
He was psyched!
It was a bit hot, so we spent most of the session in the Ice Cave.  It was nice in there, and I got busy working on a short man's variation to "World Conqueror." So busy that I didn't take any more photos until Skyler began working on "Masonic."  He came close to getting a rare ascent of this tall, difficult, classic which was established by Chris a couple years ago.

To wrap up, I'd like to explain that a lot of ideas have come into stark relief for me during the past few weeks.  The most salient one is that when life comes to an end, we live on through our reputation.  That it's important to have a positive impact on the world.  But that different people are in very different places, and will have very different impacts.  We all have a unique path to tread.  Most of our moments, and most of our lives, continue on in a comfortable state of habit just meeting necessities. But true excellence, influence, and inspiration come from doing new things, and doing them well.  My dad left many positive marks on the world. 

I know that my marks on the world will be left through my efforts as a father, a teacher, and a bouldering developer.  And also with my efforts to document what I learn through words and photographs.  Continually hoping that, with sincere effort, I will be able to live on with a good reputation.  What more can we do?

Friday, July 8, 2016

The Importance of Traveling and Coming Home Again

We've been climbing on the road, and climbing close to home.  To construct the narrative I've diverged from chronological order.  But our summer break began with a road trip to see family in Oregon.  We camped and climbed along the way. 
 We bouldered at City of Rocks, a spot I've wanted to check out for a while now.  It's a very beautiful area.
 The rock is both pretty and pretty strange.  Some of the most solid patina I've grabbed covering some of the softest granite.  We had a good time there.
We spent most of our day climbing and trying a variety of lines on the Green Wall.  Sierra climbed her first V7.  I'll need to return to put all the moves on this line together.
 We camped above Boise.  I began the night wondering how it was that so many people were in the city below us, and none of them were camping near us this beautiful Friday night.  Later we were joined by three stoners who parked nearby, and proceeded to keep me up with their laughing from 2:30 am until sunrise.
 We also took a trip to see family in Vail.  I was excited to gauge my bouldering strength by getting back on "Return of the Jedi" V8 at Red Cliff.  I'd almost sent this the year before we moved to Wyoming, and had never gotten the chance to return.  I did the problem, and Ashley repeated it too! It's wonderful to find that I'm a little bit stronger than I was eight years ago.
 We also repeated many classics, like "Star Crossed Lovers" V5/6 at the Aircraft Carrier.
 And Sierra was introduced to and climbed a lot of the great lines too.

We've also been climbing closer to home.  We spent one day in the northern Winds on our trip back from Oregon.
 Where we cleaned and climbed a few new moderates.
 I thought the line below would give us a good workout, but the friction was too good, and it ended up going at V2.  Sierra got the first ascent, and she hasn't told me a name for it yet.

 We've also been climbing closer to home.  Repeating lines at the Rock Shop, and getting a few we hadn't done before.

Here's Cole demonstrating the stretch and then scrunch beta of "2nd Hand Smoke" V5.

 When we went to Deer Park I was the only one prepared for a river crossing, so I carried my family, and all of our stuff across.
 I put up a V3 called "Tell Me Now" and then an extended traverse into the line called "Tell Me Later" V4.
 That was how I warmed up for the project.  But I we haven't been able to finish it yet.
 Even closer to home, I did the "Caterpillar Arete Traverse" V8 at the Source for the first time.  A little more evidence that I'm a bit stronger than I've ever been.
 And Sierra climbed it too.  Demonstrating that she is getting stronger much more quickly than I ever have.

A rare Chocolate Lily up at the Source.
 And I explored some new stone in the Winds with Davin.  We found lines I'd like to return to.
 A lot of rock with great features.
 We put up a few lines there already.  The best one of the day was cleaned up with the help of Davin's alpine rappel kit.  Behind it, I put up a V3 traverse that exits the cave along a thin seam called "Out of the Den."
 Davin climbing his line.

 It's a tall line with an interesting crux.

I'm impressed with the area, and will go back as soon as someone commits to going there with me. We'll also come up with a good name for the sector eventually.
Travel is essential. It's been good to see new things, and it's been great to climb some established lines that I haven't been able to climb before!  But having a home is essential too. I feel more relaxed here, and enjoy being able to contribute to climbing, by exploring and putting up new lines.  Like most things it seems, a balance must be struck.