Monday, January 2, 2017

Over Two Hundred Problems at the Rock Shop Compiled!

The season is here for guidebook work, and work is beginning on a comprehensive guide to the Rock Shop.  I'm excited to be working with Justin Iskra, Kian Stewart, Ben Sears, and Kyle Duba this time around.  It's a true community project!  We want to get the word out, and collect input from as many Rock Shop developers/boulderers as possible.  So here is my current Rock Shop list based on personal experience, and what I could find online.  Dashes mean that I'm not aware of the problem and couldn't find star ratings online.  I'll update this list as I get more information.  If you see something that is incorrect or incomplete, please leave a comment here or e-mail me at davlloyd3@yahoo.com  Thanks!

Sea of Pearls            V13*** Chris Marley
The Iron Spider   V13*** Chris Marley
Land of the Free (sit)   V12** Chris Marley
Land of the Free   V11*** Chris Marley
Smoking the Tree    V12** Chris Marley
Smoking the Tree (Stand)   V10** Chris Marley
Gem Thief                                   V11**         Chris Marley
The Giving Tree (Sit)   V11** Chris Marley
Unforgiving Tree (low start) V11** Chris Marley
"Philanderer Wall Traverse"         V10? **     Chris Marley
Spidey Sense                               V11**        Chris Marley
Pain and Perfection (low)   V11** Chris Marley
Shooting Stars   V11* Chris Marley
Astro Boy   V10** Chris Marley
Landiego          V10** Chris Marley
Get High and Fly                        V9 ***        Chris Marley
Back Alley Hooker                      V9***          Chris Marley
Landslide           V9* Chris Marley
Butch Cassidy           V9** Chris Marley
"Arete by Money Train"                V? —          Chris Marley
Starry Night                                  V7***         Chris Marley
Get High and Fly Stand                V7 **          Chris Marley
The Vault     V10 Chris Marley
Spider Sense (stand)     V10*   Chris Marley
Iron Spider (stand)             V10***     Chris Marley
Smokin’ the Tree (stand)     V10 **   Chris Marley
Mary Jane     V10**   Chris Marley
Electric Storm            V9 **   Chris Marley
How High     V9** Chris Marley
Mr. Green     V10** Chris Marley
Search Party             V10** Chris Marley
Corn on the Cob     V9* Chris Marley
Electric Shit   V8** Chris Marley
Shamrock    V8* Chris Marley
Pimp Hand     V7** Chris Marley
Sundance Kid            V6 ***   Chris Marley
"Swan Boulder Three Problems" V3- ~V6 *     Chris Marley
"Unnamed Traverse and Up Problem”* V5 and V6 Chris Marley
Sharma Style             V5*         Chris Marley
Mr. Nice Guy             V7**        Chris Marley
Piggy   V1**        Chris Marley
Lord of the Flies                         V5***       Chris Marley
Zef                                              V6**        Chris Marley
Traverse Into Zef                        V3*          Chris Marley
Piggy   V1** Chris Marley
Luke Skywalker   V8**              Chris Marley
Sleepy Hollow                             V6**             Chris Marley
Wonder Warmup                         V2**             Chris Marley
Wonder Dyno                              V8**             Chris Marley
Unnamed near Wonder               V7*              Chris Marley

Snake Eyes Traverse                                   V7**        BJ Tilden
Bust a Lung (Is this Smoking the Tree sit?) V12***    BJ Tilden


Bandito                          V11**         Carlo Traversi

Lost in Space                                 V11**       Mike Bockino

The Giving Tree     V10***        Jamie Emerson

Philanderer      V9 ***      Jon Glassberg
Lander Calphilanderer      V9 **   Jon Glassberg
Philander Calrissian      V9 **         Jon Glassberg
Trick Ass Mark      V10***        Jon Glassberg
Name of the Wind SDS      V9 ***   Jon Glassberg 

Lander Before Time      V7 *   Connor Griffith 
Name of the Wind      V8 ***   Connor Griffith
Lander Calrissian      V7/8 **     Connor Griffith

Holy Canoli                   V9/10**              Skyler Bol
V4 to the right of H.C.    V4*                   Skyler Bol


Grave Wave               V5***  Justin Iskra
Lords of Dogtown                          V6** Justin Iskra
Chocolate Thunder                       V2***       Justin Iskra
Escape From Reality                      V6**        Justin Iskra
Boats and Hoes                             V4**           Justin Iskra
Long Far Gone                               V4***          Justin Iskra
Come Sail Away                            V1***          Justin Iskra
World Gone Sour                            V7*         Justin Iskra
Cock Salad V6* Justin Iskra
The Morse Rides Again Direct        V5***        Justin Iskra
Welcome Back Slab                         V1**           Justin Iskra
Welcome Back Arete                        V2* Justin Iskra
Shit Storm V5**            Justin Iskra

Liquid Nails                                          V1***          Mark Avery

Inglorious Bastard                                V6**         Zach Rudy
Psychedelic Relic                                 V8***       Zach Rudy
The Unforgiving Tree                            V9**       Zach Rudy

Pain and Perfection                         V10**         Ashley Lloyd 
La Traverse’e de L’anniversaire V7***               Ashley Lloyd
Burly                                                 V6**               Ashley Lloyd
Powerball                                         V6*          Ashley Lloyd 
On the Move                                    V4**         Ashley Lloyd 
Jet Stream                                       V3**          Ashley Lloyd
Bikini Bottom                                    V3           Ashley Lloyd
Hold Your Horses        V5/6*     Ashley Lloyd
Copperhead                   V5**        Ashley Lloyd 
Ready to Go                  V4*           Ashley Lloyd
Snake Salad                                     V6*         Ashley Lloyd
Two Snakes Traverse                       V6**        Ashley Lloyd
To the Pain                                        V6*          Ashley Lloyd
Little Roof                                          V5           Ashley Lloyd/Jesse Firestone
Rattlesnake Traverse                        V5*         Ashley Lloyd
Slopers to Quality                              V4**        Ashley Lloyd
Too Fun                                              V4*        Ashley Lloyd

Young Blood                  V5***       Jesse Brown
Super Nova                                       V3***       Jesse Brown
Headless Horseman                         V3***             Jesse Brown
Black Swan                                        V5**         Jesse Brown
Font Simulator                                   V4**              Jesse Brown
C-3PO                                                V7*         Jesse Brown
R2D2                                                  V7*         Jesse Brown
Punctuality Award                               V2*         Jesse Brown
Roasted                                              V2           Jesse Brown
Shots Fired                                         V2**             Jesse Brown
Square Planet                                     V3*              Jesse Brown
Solar Flare                                          V1**             Jesse Brown
El Moreno Right                                  V2**             Jesse Brown
The Engagement     V5*              Jesse Brown
The Lobster                                         V3?**          Jesse Brown
(Left of Silence)                                   V4?**          Jesse Brown

Drop it Like It's Hot                              V6***       Charlie Manganiello
Always on Time                                   V5**         Charlie Manganiello 
Against All Odds                                  V4*         Charlie Manganiello 

True Blood            V6*         Matt Saunders

Mustache Ride                                     V2**           Brian Horlick


Snakes on a Train                              V6**          Kian Stewart
Motherfucking Snakes                        V7***        Kian Stewart
Joy of Life                                           V5**           Kian Stewart
Mesmerize                                          V4**           Kian Stewart
The Wedge                                         V4—            Kian Stewart
The Wind Blows High                         V4—            Kian Stewart
Coral Reefer                                       V4         Kian Stewart
Satisfy My Soul                                   V3/4—         Kian Stewart
Moon Rocks                                        V3**           Kian Stewart
Havana Daydream                              V2**         Kian Stewart
Limb by Limb                                       V1—           Kian Stewart
The Line                                               V1—           Kian Stewart
My Side Piece                                     V1/2—         Kian Stewart
High Stakes                                         V? —          Kian Stewart
In Tents                                                V?—            Kian Stewart
Heartless Bastard                                V3**        Kian Stewart
The Sun is Shining                            V0/1 —        Kian Stewart
Party Time                                           V0 —          Kian Stewart


Nexus                                                 V6***            David Lloyd
Giddyup                   V4**     David Lloyd
Caroline Test                   V5**         David Lloyd
Boulder of Montana                   V5**              David Lloyd
Preemptive Strike             V3**         David Lloyd
Fear of Commitment          V4**         David Lloyd
Silence                  V3**         David Lloyd
Raise the Roof                                   V1*           David Lloyd
Awakenings                                        V1*          David Lloyd
Millenium Falcon          V5**         David Lloyd
Stone Country                                    V3/4*       David Lloyd
Touch of Grey                                    V6**         David Lloyd
Stone Country SDS           V7**        David Lloyd
Gaston Gaston           V5*      David Lloyd
Perfect Storm                   V6**        David Lloyd
The Great Escape                               V5**         David Lloyd
Pit Viper                                               V4*         David Lloyd
2nd Hand Smoke                                V5**         David Lloyd
Doom Doom             V2**             David Lloyd
Mars Attacks                                        V6*              David Lloyd
Scrunchity Crunch                               V4*              David Lloyd
Sliced Bread                                        V3**             David Lloyd
Total Paralysis                                     V3**             David Lloyd
Fighting Paralysis                                V2***           David Lloyd
Armchair Martian                                 V2**             David Lloyd
Jammin’ is a Thing of the Past            V1**             David Lloyd
Get to the Point                                   V1*              David Lloyd


Moss Man Prophecy                             V4**       Calen Campbell
Big Fudge                                              V2**      Calen Campbell
Skid Marks                                            V2**       Calen Campbell
Calen's Face                                         V2/3*     Calen Campbell
Short Stack and Variations                    ~V2*       Calen Campbell


"Two V2s near Lord of the Flies"            V2* Chris Marley and Tony Stark?
Foul Mouth                                              V4**        Tony Stark
Shit Storm         V5**        Tony Stark
Full Sail                                                   V7***       Tony Stark
The Morse Rides Again                          V4***        Tony Stark

La Boulangerie                                        V3**         Alan Pirie

In the Akasha                                            V9**      Kerrek Stinson

Darth                                                          V3*         Bryan VanSickle
Pork Chop                                                  V6***      Bryan Vansickle
First Contact                     V5**       Bryan Vansickle
Tongue'er Muffin                                        V5?**     Bryan Vansickle

Just Getting Started                                    V5*          Alex Johnston
My Mind's Eye Traverse                             V6**         Alex Johnston
Hard Rock Syndrome                                 V2*          Alex Johnston
Seemingly Suspect                                     V3*          Alex Johnston
My Mind's Eye                                             V1**        Alex Johnston

Termites                                                      V5**        Matt Pincus
Land is Not Free              V7*         Matt Pincus

Weirdos From Another Planet                     V5**     Jesse Firestone 
Captain Obvious                                          V2*       Jesse Firestone
If, Then, Because                                        V7*         Jesse Firestone

Slippery Truth                                               V1*          Sierra Lloyd
Bobcat’s                                                       V1**         Sierra Lloyd

The Hills Have Eyes                                     V3***       Ben Williams

Money Train                                                   V2***    Stephen Snell

Unnamed                                                       V4**           Spenser Tang-Smith
Unnamed                                                       V3---       Spenser Tang-Smith
Purple is a Color                                            V2           Spenser Tang-Smith

Zef Warm ups                                                V0-2*        ?
Piggy to Lord of the Flies V.                           V5*           ?
Quality Warmup                                             V1***        ?

The Other                                                       V2 **        ?

Saturday, December 31, 2016

Searching for Truth and Possibilities


The quest continues.  It was a very busy fall, and the lack of posts here was caused by too much happening rather than too little.  Instead of reporting in chronological order, I'm arranging this post by area.  We spent the most time at Sweetwater Rocks, and finished a handful of new lines out there.  The first is an amazing feature near "Weapons of Mass Destruction," a rail formed of some of the best rock out at Sweetwater.  I brushed it off, and we used Rock, Paper, Scissors to determine who would get the first shot at climbing it.  Sierra won the first attempt, and flashed it.  "55 Feet of Fun" has good holds for hands the whole way, but it gets pumpy by the end, we'll call it V3 even though no move is that difficult by itself.  Stepping off is usually an option, but it isn't a good idea to fall off this line.
Here's a photo of Ashley climbing a portion from the opposite angle.
Ashley put up a short new V4 a couple hundred feet to the east called "Hamstring" with a tough crux heal hook.
During another session Ashley climbed "Another Toe in the Ocean" V5 using a less reachy variation that looks a lot harder than the sequence I use.
A couple weeks later, Kian got the third ascent.
We were filmed on that day for a documentary series called "This American Land."  I'll let you know when it airs.

Another day I set up a rope to try out a tall crack project.  It still needs some brushing, and it will be difficult.
 To the right I climbed a new line called "Spookier than Expected" V3.

    We also finished the top of a fingery project.  We'll need to get back to finish it.                            

Here's a portrait of Sierra and the view from what I'm calling the "Bird Bath" zone.  Later that day she climbed "The Hampi Traverse" V7.

We got another good Sweetwater session in at the "Weapons of Mass Destruction" sector before the snow came in.  I repeated "Falkor" V5 and Sierra climbed "Fight the Nothing" V7.  Sierra almost climbed "Weapons of Mass Destruction" and Ashley had a good time showing her how it's done. 
On the downhill side of the boulder I added a new problem called "Top Down" V5 that starts as shown in the photo below.

The line might not be finished though. It should have a V8-10 sit start one day.

And that's the news from Sweetwater last Fall.

While I was out filming "This American Land" at Sweetwater, Ashley and Sierra were away.  They were checking out the bouldering around Chattanooga, TN.  They competed in the Triple Crown Bouldering at Stone Fort, and spent a day at Rock Town, Georgia.  





They report that the southern sandstone is good.  I still  haven't climbed on it yet.

I spent one perfect afternoon out at Oz with Steve, Noah, Siemay, and Zun.

A portrait of Steve at the end of the session.


We figured out a start to Jon's tall warmup that doesn't use the block under the roof.  I put it together first, and called it "While You're Away" V5.  It has immaculate stone.

Steve trying "While You're Away."

Siemay climbing the V4 left stand to "A Tribe Called Lander".  We also did a V6 stand version to the right.  None of us were able to climb Chris' full line that day.
Zun climbed a bunch of nice new lines on the block just north of "A Tribe Called Lander."  I think it will become known as Zun's Block.
I'm still looking forward to doing a lot more climbing and exploration out there.

Davin and Bryan made a trip for what looked like a perfect day in the Kitchen.  But high winds blew rain across the divide and into the canyon all morning.  In the afternoon, things dried up well enough to climb, but conditions weren't ideal. 

Davin demonstrating the crux on "Viscountess Olive."
Bryan working "Larry Bird."
The humidity stayed high and the rock never felt quite dry enough.  No lines were sent, but we had a fun day on hard projects, shared our knowledge, and looked at some new things.

Jesse Brown shared topos to Flaming Gorge with me a few years ago, and it bothered me that I still hadn't checked out one of the best looking sectors.  So we spent a nice day climbing there with Steve and Jan.

We all warmed up on a perfect line of slots that Jesse called "100 Degrees of Hate" V1.
And then climbed a crimpy line called"Jesse's Lap Dance" V4.
We did a few more moderates that I didn't get photos of, and ended the day on another great line called "Robber's Roost" V4.
The sector is beautiful and it still has a lot of potential, but it hasn't gotten much traffic, and the lichen is growing back.

Then the weather abruptly switched from a very warm fall to a very cold winter.  With Davin's help and direction, Sierra and I have hiked some areas that could offer winter bouldering near Lander.

And we've seen some beautiful landscapes along the way.

Even after the cold hit, we had a surprisingly beautiful session at Torrey Valley.
Sierra almost flashed "The Good Earth Traverse" V8.  She got it on her second try.

We sought out warmer temps at Unaweep Canyon, CO over Thanksgiving break.

Sierra flashed "Chinese Algebra" V6

Ashley and I did "Chinese Algebra" too, but my favorite climb was the "Hueco Problem" V4.

During the most recent cold weekends we've gone to Sinks canyon.

With one day spent at the beach.

And another day I went sport climbing with Sierra at the Main Wall.
It was only 13 degrees in Lander, but the cliffs were really nice that day.
And that's what we've been up to.  But there is an underlying theme to this long and wide ranging post.  The truth is what's out there, and the possibilities are what can be done with the truth.  We spent the last season searching for both.


Once again, I'm working on this blog on New Years Eve as the fireworks go off in Lander.  We just got back from a Christmas trip to New Mexico today, but this post is long enough already.  I'll have photos from Roy, and the 2016 List of new boulder problems posted soon.

Happy New Year!