The Last Few Colorado Sessions

for a while at least.

Recent events and upcoming plans have converged to convey a strong sense that time is limited. I've been getting out when I can, and appreciating the chance. We had nice conditions at the KB boulder in RMNP yesterday. Ashley finished off the surprisingly powerful problem "Snizzle Sticks"





I didn't quite figure out my beta quickly enough.

On the 4th of July I got out for a great early morning session with Jacob at Red Feather. More wildflowers than I've ever seen.


We got back on the dyno problem that eluded us for a couple sessions last fall.


I managed to stick the dyno, and finish off the mantle. The mantle was quite strenuous, as seen in the video below. I'm not sure if there's a more elegant way to do it or not. It's probably been done before, but I'm calling it "Buddha Belly" until I learn it has another name.

We did a couple high moderate problems, and had a couple tries each on the Pachyderm project.

Jacob climbing "Raised Eyebrow."


It's hard to say when I'll make it back to Red Feather. I'm going to miss it. My schedule will be quite a bit busier for the rest of the summer. I'll blog when I can, but it might not happen every week.

Buddha Belly

Sometimes bouldering isn't pretty.

Vedauwoo to Evans and Back

The week began at Vedauwoo's Bistro boulders. I've been trying to help Ashley find a summer project, and I mentioned to Davin that Ashley liked hard traverses and problems with small holds. Davin said that a problem he did called "Cumulus" has really small holds, and is V11 or 12. I remembered seeing video of Jamie Emerson doing the problem. It sounded worth checking out. If you want to find it, it's listed in the Vedauwoo Bouldering Guide as the "Bolrog Project."

I let Davin know that we were coming up. He drove up to meet us and brought his friend Guili who had just gotten the third ascent. Conditions were better than expected. A nice cool breeze made things really pleasant as we got started. Davin and Guili walked us out to the problem, and helped us with their beta. Ashley was making quick progress and it looked worth trying, though I didn't have very high expectations. I jumped on and surprised myself by putting some moves together. I kept waiting for a move to shut me down, but it didn't happen. Once I had all the moves worked out I tried a few times from the bottom. The sharp rock cut through one of my finger pads and the moves felt much harder in succession, but possible. Ashley was making it look easy. She got through the majority of the problem quickly, but couldn't figure out how to get to the top out holds statically. Ashley doesn't jump when she's high off the ground. Davin and Guili were surprised by our quick progress. The crux moves are easier for short climbers. We made plans to come back on Tuesday, but my finger wasn't healed on Monday afternoon so we changed plans and decided to go to Mt. Evans instead.

Mt. Evans

My project at Evans for many years has been "Seurat." On my second trip to Evans I did really well on the problem. It was early in the season, and all that kept me from sending was seeping water in the final jam. Since then I've had three more days on the problem, and haven't managed to get my hand in the final jam again. Each time I visit the crack is more chalked up, and the foot pod out right feels less likely to stick. It looks like someone tried cleaning the pod with a wire brush, and ended up removing the texture I needed to get established. I know it's still getting climbed, but it may be getting more difficult faster than I'm improving. Long story short, every trip to Evans we've gotten worked on Seurat. Too worked to send anything else. On Tuesday, we got worked by "Seurat" once again. We felt holds on the Dali boulder.

We brushed some holds too, but we didn't climb much.

The only new line for me was the fun, but not too difficult, one facing Bierstadt.


Thursday we went back to Vedauwoo with the goal of sending "Cumulus."

We left Ft. Collins at 6 AM to try and get on it before it heated up. Our plan didn't work at all. The problem was in full sun and warm to the touch. Mosquitoes were swarming, everything was covered in dew. The problem felt slightly wet to the touch in the warm humid air. Ashley and I were competing to see who could send it first. Ashley was having no problem getting up to the top out moves. I sliced my finger back open on my first try of the day. I taped it up, and surprised myself by getting through the crux from the bottom. I wasn't sure if I could get through the crux again so I gave it everything I had and managed to finish it off. Here's the video. The holds are sharp so I didn't feel like jumping on it again to film other angles or hand shots.

Based on my experience with the grading system, I'm calling the problem V9. My experience with this problem reinforces the fact that grades don't work all that well for bouldering. A problem's difficulty often varies dramatically for people with different body types. Ashley cruised to the top out over and over again, but ended up three inches short of a static solution. Despite the sharp holds I really like the problem. Interesting, challenging climbing up an aesthetic line.

We left the Bistro Boulders, and finished off the session at the Nautilus. "Tempest" felt really hard after losing our skin on "Cumulus." Our daughters found a hideout that they wanted us to check out.

It was a cool hideout and we found a couple boulder problems inside. The first was a nice lip traverse with an exciting mantle over a poor landing.

Ashley was psyched to see a dirty lowball line. After brushing off a lot of dirt, she put all the moves together for an ascent.



It was a quick transition from what felt like serious bouldering to just having fun climbing around in a cave like hideout. Maybe it should always feel like just fun climbing around.

From Needle Peak to RMNP

Austin and me contemplating "Sweet Things to do When You're Old" on the Polish Boulder.

Ashley contemplating "Into the Wild" in RMNP.

Great sessions this week. On Monday I woke up with a 4:30 AM alpine start so I could meet Davin in Laramie by 7:00. Davin, Austin, and I carpooled over to Needle Peak in Davin's jeep. With high clearance and 4-wheel drive, Davin parked just uphill from the Polish Boulder. It's a perfect boulder with a variety of classic problems including a really nice undone project. I was blown away by the problem "Sweet Things to do When You're Old." Twice I got past the crux to the last move, but couldn't get myself to go for the top. I'll definitely be heading back for it. As with all my best sessions, I was too busy climbing or spotting to do much photography. Davin took these shots and sent them to me.
Going for a hold beyond the frame on "Sweet Things to do When You're Old."

I was so worked by the Polish Boulder that I had negative progress on "The Axe." It should be better when I get back on it fresh. From "The Axe" we hiked up the hill to Davin's roof project. It looked difficult, and felt ridiculous. Davin did well on it. It'll go.
Davin working the project.

We ended the day on an undone problem that Scott and I looked at last fall. It uses a line of three nice holds over a roof before escaping to the left. Coming out the roof off the left side pull feels very committing despite the fact that it isn't too high. Eventually I got myself to go for it, and just barely got my first Needle Peak first ascent. I named it "Question of Trust."

As we loaded the pads into the jeep we noticed a bunch of Bryan's shell casings in the back. Davin commented "That's Wyoming."

The rock, problems, and atmosphere of Needle Peak continue to impress me. Thanks for showing me around Davin, and I hope we can get out again soon.

RMNP was the destination on Tuesday.


With general directions for the "Into the Wild" boulder I dropped off my stuff at Nymph lake, and scouted a vast area until I eventually found it. I ran back, and lead Ashley and the girls to it. "Into the Wild" has some really wide moves that didn't suite Ashley well. She really liked "Outta Season" though. A nice traversing line just to the left.
She did it a couple times for photos and video. I was too worked from Needle to even try it. My shoes were left in the car.




Today, Ashley was at a teaching conference in Denver. I took the girls to the Wild Basin Boulder, and sent "The Pinch Problem." I tried it after doing the "Slot Problem" a couple weeks ago, and thought it felt possible for me this year. The humidity was high, but I discovered new beta using a high left foot that made it just doable. As I finished the session, it began to rain. A common occurrence this summer.

The Body Dump, Vedauwoo

On Tuesday and Friday we bouldered in Vedauwoo at the Body Dump. A frightening name for a really nice place. Luckily, we didn't see any bodies. Tuesday was windy, and rain shortened our session. Friday was perfect, partly sunny with nice cool temps. I spent a day looking for the Body Dump last summer, and didn't find it. This year I had a guide to the area we received at the Vedauwoo Bouldering Comp last fall. It was farther east than I had expected, and is it's own small formation. Last year I missed it by looking all around the large formation to the west. The boulders surrounding the area are standard Vedauwoo boulders covered with crystals. The Body Dump formation is completely covered in patina.

The Body Dump


The standard short, flat, and pretty Vedauwoo approach.


The first classic problem we did is called "Pogo Left." Solid, incut, friendly patina crimps up a tall bulging face.



From there I moved on to "The Pogo Stick." This is a tricky problem, that took me two sessions due to it's devious nature.



Eventually I learned that just because a problem has a nice looking chalked undercling hueco on it, that doesn't mean you have to use it. On Friday I tried a new sequence using what appeared from the ground to be unusable slimpers, and it worked.

Ashley's main goal was just to get a good workout. The guide had a problem named "Good Roof Traverse" and we went over to check it out. The same boulder also had a project listed in the guide. We found the sharp crimps Davin's guide described, and Ashley got psyched. Small moves on small sharp incut holds with frustratingly high foot holds, a rock slab just behind which requires powerful pulling just to keep off the ground. We had to take a single layer of foam out of Ashley's pad. Anything thicker made it impossible not to dab. A "Classic Ashley" first ascent only recommended for climbers with really strong fingers, and really short arms. Ashley called it "Stickworm Roof" after a caterpillar we found on the line. The name fits the problem well.



Ashley climbed it a second time for video.


A classic problem at the Body Dump that shouldn't be missed is "From Minnesota With Love." Perfect incut patina jugs, widely spaced, high above a sketchy landing. It's Vedauwoo's version of "The Melon Patch" at Hueco. It even has a good sit-start.




Just to the east of the Body Dump is another small formation with a few really good problems.
Ashley climbing the aptly named, classic moderate, "The Urinal."

We ended the day on "The Warlock." A good problem with wide strenuous moves, on big sidepulls.
Ashley about to stretch.

Sundance chilling like a border collie.

With all the rain, wildflowers are growing everywhere.

It's hard to clean up my projects when there are still bouldering areas around that I haven't checked out yet. This was a really fun one.

Red Feather Video and Article

Dead Point Magazine has posted a video and article about Red Feather bouldering on their site. The cover shot looks vaguely familiar. If you hit the Zoom button it gets much easier to read. It took me way longer than it should have to figure that out.

Summer Sessions

We've begun the summer climbing schedule, and it's been incredibly fun. Teaching is hard work, but I really enjoy the benefits. The high chances of rain have kept us close to the car, but the cloudy, cool weather has allowed us to climb at areas that are normally too hot at this time of year. On Tuesday we took a chance on the weather at the Wild Basin boulder in RMNP, and this time luck was with us. Conditions felt better than they ever have. Sunny, but really cool. Amanda climbed with us too, and we passed a handicapped (or should I say tailicapped) squirrel on the short hike in.

My main goal was to finish the "Slot Problem." I've worked on this line for years, and this has generally been my high point.

An attempt from last year.

On Tuesday, I was finally able to hold my position long enough to fit my left hand into the slot rather than jabbing at it as I began to fall. This helped a lot, and going to the top was pretty simple with my left hand locked in. It's a difficult problem.

POV climbing shot from the "Slot Problem."

With the "Slot Problem" finished, I moved on to the "Pinch Problem." While I worked on this, another climber arrived and started working the "Slot Problem" from a sit start.

Low on the "Pinch Problem."

Suddenly I felt like my send of the "Slot Problem" from slightly higher holds wasn't as legit as it should be. I jumped back on, and managed to do it again from the sit start. Ashley did it from the sit start too. It feels good to be stronger, and to have completed one of the projects I wanted to do before we move.

On Thursday, we climbed at the Cloud Shadow wall on Flagstaff Mountain with Amanda. With the exception of Hobo Cave, which has different rock, it had been many years since I'd climbed at Flagstaff. I'd enjoyed "Hagan's Wall," but had the general impression that the rock on Flagstaff was sharp, the pebbles were greasy, and the problems were very sandbagged. Some of these impression are probably true, but I was really impressed by the Cloud Shadow wall on Tuesday. Chuffer's online guide helped quite a bit. In the past, I was usually confused about where problems started, went, and ended. Chuffer's online guide shows exactly where the lines go, and even describes what holds to look for. This really improved the experience. Thanks Chuffer! Cloud Shadow has some of the best stone at Flagstaff as well. Solid, with hueco and rail features.

The Cloud Shadow Wall.

Sierra enjoyed a traverse she found on the "Pedestal." We were given some small rock shoes, and she's been putting them to good use.



Our plan was to work on the "UCT," but we decide pretty early that we didn't feel like trying that hard. I'm hoping my beta was off, because it felt like my wrists might explode from underclinging. At Flagstaff the "easy" problems often aren't too easy, so we tried some of them.
We jumped on the "East Alcove Crack." Here is Amanda giving it a go.



She probably would have jumped back on, but it began to rain. We went back to the base to get our things together. Luckily we didn't move too fast because the rain passed, and the sun came out. The rock dried quickly, and we jumped on "Consideration." It's a fantastic problem that feels committing until you do it. Then you realize it's not that hard or scary. We all did it, and Ashley did it again for photos.

"Consideration"




We completed our workout with the "Cloud Shadow Traverse."

We had a lot of fun on Thursday, so we decide to go back to Flagstaff today. The "King Conquer Rock" and surroundings had high classics for me, and a traverse for Ashley. Alexis joined us, and the weather cooperated. The rock quality at King Conquer Rock isn't as good as at Cloud Shadow, but the location and views can't be beat. Every time you top out, all of Boulder is spread out before you.

Ashley climbing "Layback."

My main goal was to climb the "King Conquer Overhang." It's an impressive line, with everything you could ask for in a problem. I highly recommend it.


"Face Out" was fun and then we noticed Shark's Rock a few rocks south of King Conquer. The "Direct West Face" looked really good so Alexis and I jumped on. A beautiful line in an airy position.


Alexis flashing the line.


The rain came in and ended the session, but our skin was gone anyway. A very fun session. More sessions next week ...

Magazines find a new home.

I've been collecting Climbing/Rock and Ice magazines for the last 14 years. As I started packing them for the move, I realized that I wasn't interested in keeping a complete collection. I had over 100 issues in good condition that I was willing to part with for the low low price of free. I offered to give them away here on the blog, and they were claimed right away.

Looking through old climbing mags it's interesting to see what has changed, what hasn't, and what gets continually recycled. Which famous climbers have stuck around, and which once famous climbers just suddenly stopped appearing in the climbing press. A "Where are they now?" piece would be interesting. Although there are exceptions like Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden, and Lisa Rands, fame (in terms of magazine coverage) seems to have a pretty short cycle for many female climbers. Male climbers, writers, and photographers in the magazines seem to have a higher chance of sticking around long term. Do many top women climbers quit the sport, or are they just not covered by the media when they are no longer young and new? Maybe it's easier to become famous as a female climber, but harder to hold on to it? I don't have any data or answers here, just something I'm thinking about.

A Session in Sinks Canyon

Last Thursday we did some bouldering in Sinks Canyon State Park. It was a nice break after a couple days spent looking at houses. Sinks is just outside of Lander, close enough for after school sessions, so I'm sure we'll be spending a lot of time there. It has sandstone, dolomite, and granite bouldering. Ashley prefers the dolomite. I like the granite. Hopefully we'll be able to work out a compromise. On this day, the warm sunny weather determined our destination. The Cabin Boulders are shaded in the woods and we had a cool breeze so conditions were perfect.

Ashley warming up on the "Jehova Cabana" boulder.

The hike is quite short. Kendal made it.

We did a bunch of moderates, and then got to work on "Mo's Traverse." It seems a bit height dependent, doable for short people, but really difficult. We have our first project.
Ashley on a moderate section of "Mo's Traverse."

The granite in Sinks feels and climbs just like the good granite bouldering in Poudre Canyon, although most Cabin Boulder problems are shorter, and not as steep. Very fun problems that I wish were just a little taller.

Ashley flashing "West Face" on the Hillside Boulder. Crimps to a sloper top-out. It took me three tries to stick the slopers.

Looking across the canyon, and up the hillside into the forest I could make out a talus field of large blocks, and a few large isolated blocks in the trees. Maybe they've been developed, but are not in the guide yet. Maybe they still need to be cleaned up and climbed. Either way it looks like I'll have plenty of boulders to keep me busy. The Cabin Boulders are just the tip of the bouldering potential in Sinks, and Sinks is just one of many climbing areas with boulders near Lander.

One thing I find refreshing about the Lander area is the lack of fees. Around Ft. Collins, I've grown accustomed to buying a sixty dollar pass so we can visit Horsetooth and Carter whenever we want. Spending six bucks whenever we go to Lory or Eldorado State parks. Two, ten dollar habitat stamps to visit the 420's. Thirty-five dollars for our annual RMNP pass. Five dollars each time we drive into main Vedauwoo. I'm all for money going to public lands, but I wonder how much money is really left over for essential services after paying rangers to collect and enforce the fees. In Sinks Canyon State Park, campsites have fees, but hiking and climbing are free. You can camp for free in Lander City Park for three consecutive nights. Free camping in town! Good luck finding that in Ft. Collins.

Camping in Lander City Park.

Rained Out

We took a chance on the weather this weekend, and we didn't quite win. Shaun and Aaron joined us at the Wild Basin boulder, and during our warm-up problems it began to rain. We hoped it would pass, and it looked like it might, but eventually the storm strengthened and we walked out in pouring rain. We did get a few tries on the "Slot Problem." Conditions weren't great, but it felt much more doable for me this year. On my best go, I managed to get into position and jump for the finishing jug. I think I'll be able to finish it off with one more session. Aaron and Shaun also made quick progress.

Aaron wielding his improvised stick brush.

On the drive home we noticed it wasn't raining at Carter Lake. We stopped and ran a lap on the Scenic Boulder "Standard Route," and started working a traverse across the boulder.

Scenic Boulder "Standard Route"

Soon the sun came out, and due to heat and humidity, bouldering was no longer fun. We took the girls down to play at the edge of the lake.

The two short sessions added up to about half a workout. Ashley left for the gym as soon as we got home.

Summer vacation is officially here, but we're still very busy taking care of things and preparing for the move. I have plans to do more thoughtful blogging once things calm down. Some other bloggers have already gotten started. Check out the links list. Mountains and Water has some good posts to think about.