Saturday, April 11, 2015

So Many Spring Break First Ascents

This year's Spring Break was a little different.  We stayed in Lander and focused on putting up first ascents.  We also went out with other boulderers, which upped the productivity of the week significantly.  More brushing got done.  And more lines got climbed.  Thirty in total!  I needed to write this post just to make sure I didn't forget any of them.

On Sunday, the wind got to Sweetwater right after we did.  Jason still got the first ascent of the best looking line on The Great Wall of Warmups.  He was able to commit when the rest of us wouldn't.  The wind didn't seem to bother him.  He also added another new line to the left.  
 The theme of the entire break was avoiding the spring wind.  The wind kept us off of the projects we drove out there for.  But on the east side of the ridge we managed to find some climbable blocks mostly out of the wind.  The Scorpion block was one of them.  We climbed "The Scorpion Arete" V1 "Scorpion Stand" V4 "Scorpion Mantle" V3/4, and "The Scorpion Traverse" V3.  We also did a couple unnamed lines on a block just behind it.
 Kian found a sheltered alcove of solid stone reminiscent of Vedauwoo.  Sierra put up one of the first lines there from a sit start and called it "Cookie Pizza" V1.
 Kian put up a really nice line that I didn't get a photo or a name for.  Then he started working on this line.  Ashley sent it and called it "By the Slice" V3.
 Ashley put up a fun V0 in the alcove as well called "Pepper Flakes."

From the Alcove I caught a glimpse of a patina covered block high on the ridge.  I hiked up and was happy to find that it had perfect lines and was sheltered from the wind too.  We got started by climbing "The Downclimb."  Jason got the first ascent. It is a good down climb, but getting up it was harder than expected.  Sidepulls with poor feet allow you to stab for a good edge.  It felt like a V4 move to me.

Jason climbing "The Downclimb" V3/4

Kian got to work on a great looking line on the other side of the boulder.  He cleaned it up, found the sit start, and worked out most of the beta.  Then Kian, Jason and I all made ascents.  It's my favorite line of the day.

"Fade to Black" V3
We stayed around home during the break for three reasons.  The first is that we were recently adopted by a cat named "Piper" who just showed up at our house one day and wouldn't leave.
The second was that all the other climbing areas within an 8 hour drive were going to be too windy for comfortable camping.  And no where looked like it would have nicer climbing conditions than Sinks Canyon.  The third was that I had plenty of undone projects near Lander that I really wanted to try.

On Wednesday we took advantage of a cold front by going to the Beach.  Two boulders way up the hill on the left side of the mini canyon had caught my eye.  The big one and the one above it in the photo below.
 We started on the one above and named it the "Fire and Ice" boulder.  The south face has nice sandstone patina and nine distinct lines on it.  The three on the right are short and about V1.  Most notable are the traverses.  Right to left is "Fire" V4.  Left to Right is "Ice" V4.  "Fire and Ice" V5 is a back and forth linkup of the two traverses.  Of course, being traverses, Ashley got the first ascent of all of them.

She also got the first ascent of the tallest and most difficult straight up line on the block.
"Combustion" V3
 The big block below had a line that suited me better.  Big moves, nice pockets, interesting sidepulls, and a committing top out.  My favorite new problem of the week was
"April Fool" V5.  And that's not a joke.
We also spent two days climbing and cleaning lines on the Falls Trail.  On Monday, Matt, Steph, and Jason met us out there.  We had six pads so we used them all at "Rivtown Takeover" a somewhat tall V4 with a talus landing.

Matt working on the bottom.
 And me figuring out the top.
 Jason unlocked it first, with Matt and I climbing it a little bit later.  It probably is V4 for tall climbers, but seems like a solid V5 for short climbers, with tricky beta too.

Most of our time on the Falls Trail was spent cleaning and climbing The Puzzle Block.  It surprised me how many loose pieces of the puzzle block needed to be pushed from the top. And a couple big loose blocks had to be lifted out of the top right side.  Once the cleaning got started it felt like the best/only option was to finish the job.

Ana climbing "Tavern Puzzle" V2.  Jason did the first ascent of a great V3 just to the right.
 We also did a V2 called "Tooth Pick" to the left, and the line on the east face called "Tetris" V3.

Devlin climbing "Tetris."
 After a difficult start using a key heal hook, one gets to the top of the boulder by squatting onto a slab and a balance move as you stand up to reach to the lip.  It's a classic and memorable V3.  My favorite line on The Puzzle Block.

Uphill from the Puzzle Block is this short block.
 It's home to a lowball, somewhat contrived, heel hook dependent, sandbagged traverse on perfect stone.

"Ashley's King Line" which she calls V4.  I tried really hard, but haven't sent it yet.

I also spent a half day exploring, hiking past the Falls to see what I could find.
 I hiked until I hit winter, and then hiked some more.
I found some great looking blocks, like this one.
 But I never found a large concentration of blocks at one spot.  The glaciers did a good job of spreading the big blocks around.  So I might as well just keep brushing my way up the canyon.  No reason to hike for an hour when there are still new things to be done just ten minutes up the trail.
Thanks to everyone who lent a hand exploring, brushing, and sending with us over Spring Break!  The plan is just to keep on putting up new problems every weekend until summer vacation arrives.

Thursday, April 2, 2015

Wyoming Bouldering Hits Film and Podcast

Spring is here, the winds are back.  But temps have been good, and at least 25 new problems have been put up during the last week at Sweetwater, the Falls Trail, and The Beach!  A post will be written about those lines soon.  But tonight I'm compiling a few other good things that followers of this blog should enjoy.

Louder Than 11 released a video they filmed at the Rock Shop, the Falls Trail, and Worthen Reservoir, with landscapes thrown in from the Sweetwater area.  Hopefully you've seen it already.  But it's so well done, I think it's worth watching a few times.

I bouldered with Jon at a couple areas, and he used my guidebook to get to a few more.  It was fun to help out with this project, and I'm very happy with how it turned out!

Last fall, Paul Robinson posted this video of his ascent of Komodo a V14 at Neverland.  It's an amazing and difficult looking line.

Jimmy Webb also did another V14 ascent at Neverland called "The Multiverse."  Davin showed him the project, and it's one of the most inspiring lines I've ever seen photos of. Video of that ascent hasn't surfaced yet, but I'll let you know if it ever turns up.

And then the other night I was listening to the most recent Enormocast Podcast episode with Anna Stohr and Kilian Fischhuber.  Imagine my surprise when the conversation travelled from guns in America, to guns in Lander Wyoming, and then they mention that they want to get back to Lander because there has been a bunch of bouldering development there.  The conversation quickly moved on to other topics, but just the fact that the best climbers in Austria are aware of the bouldering development being done around Lander is pretty cool.  You can hear the full conversation at the link below.
The Enormocast Episode 77

I've felt for years that a few parts of Wyoming, such as the Lander area and Neverland, have the potential to become world class bouldering areas.  One key part of that is having the strongest boulderers of the world visit the areas and put up amazing problems.   Because all truly world class areas have inspirational problems at the upper end of the rating scale.  Just looking at really hard lines, feeling the holds, and wondering what it would be like to be that strong is an important part of the bouldering experience.  News of Wyoming's bouldering potential is starting to get to the world's strongest and most dedicated boulderers.  And it's a good thing to see.

So if you think you might be able to give Wyoming it's first V15, feel free to get in touch.  There are a few projects near Lander that I'd be happy to show you.

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Sweetwater Season is Heating Up Again!

A lot of bouldering has been getting done at Sweetwater.  Things got started with a warm spell last month and a very pleasant day out at the God Eye sector.

Towards the end of the session Jesse began working on a beautiful overhanging tall project, with big moves, on the north side of the hill. 
  Last weekend he finished the line and called it "Unicorn Tears" V6/7.

Earlier on that day in February, we got started on the In Spite boulder.  We warmed up on the established lines.

Kian climbing "In Spite of Injury" V1.


And Cameron climbing "In Spite of Love" V4/5.

Then we got to work on some undone lines.  After many failed attempts, I just barely managed to climb a line of solid small crimps from a SDS at the left side of the face into the end of "In Spite of Love."  I named it "In Spite of Myself."

Cameron working the start of "In Spite of Myself" V6/7.

Jesse did a new traverse across the face from the right to a top out on the left side of the face.

Ashley deciding not to top out Jesse's new line "Mother's Milk" V4.
Before we left, Sierra took advantage of her top out skills to add "In Spite of the Wind."  It's a V3 that follows the arete a few feet to the right of "In Spite of Injury" to a very committing straight up top out right over a boulder in the middle of the landing zone.  Only Sierra was willing to get her feet high and fully commit to it.

Then the snow returned to Sweetwater for a while.  So we didn't.


Now everything has melted out again, so last Sunday we got back for a session at the Norwegian Wood sector with Charlie and Kian.
 We warmed up on the established lines on the Easy Breezy wall.

Kian climbing "Beautiful" V2.

 And Ashley climbed "Cover Girl" V3 with an added traverse start from the left.
 From there we moved on to Norwegian Wood and a new project.  I'll post photos when someone sends it.

We finished our session with a couple new lines on a vertical wall with perfect patina.

The proudest lines on the wall are still unfinished, but I hope to have ascents to report and photos of them in the near future.


While we were working on the new things near Norwegian Wood,  Jesse, Kyle V., Matt, Steph, Sophia, and others were adding new lines near "Unicorn Tears."  Psyche is high, the forecast looks good, and I should have more to report very soon. But until then,

This is a Lloyd Climbing Blog Special Sport Climbing Report:

We haven't just been climbing at Sweetwater.  A couple weekends back, the local boulders were all covered in fresh snow so we visited The Joint.  It was my first visit to this high quality granite crag at the top of Sinks Canyon.
 It's definitely worth a trip!  A highlight of our session was watching Sierra get a top rope flash of "Mr. Bigshot" 5.11a.
If you haven't been there, I highly recommend checking it out.

And that's all I've got to share tonight, but I'll be posting often during the next few weeks.

Science Fair is over, the taxes are done, and Spring Break is almost here...

Tuesday, January 27, 2015

What Climbing's About

It was nice to have some coverage of the Dawn Wall in the news.  Some widespread recognition of climbing as the amazing sport and lifestyle that it is.  But it got a lot of people, even climbers, asking "What's the meaning of climbing?"

Meanwhile my recent climbing days made it quite clear to me, that climbing is mainly about going climbing.  It will never truly be a spectator sport (no matter how many people start watching it) and the best climbing writing, film, or photography won't ever mean that much to people that haven't tried it.  

On the other hand, everyone that goes out climbing can experience the exact same exposure, pump, fear, exhilaration, sense of accomplishment, and connection to nature that the pros do.  And everyone who gets out there can find out what it's really all about.  

So here's what climbing's been about for me during the last few weeks.

Making it work.  Even in the cold. 

 By wearing as many layers as it takes.
 Exploring new places,
 new moves,
 and not giving up until every option has been explored.
 Getting back on a rope.
 And sharing boulders with friends.
 Tromping through snow,
 to climb warm in the sun.
 And thinking about where else might be fun.
So I hope that you've also been getting out.  Reminding yourself, what climbing's about.

Monday, January 5, 2015

Everybody Loves Red Rocks

This year for the holidays we met my family at Las Vegas, and spent four days of the family trip bouldering at Red Rocks.  Kraft Rocks was busier than I've ever seen it, but other than one aggressive dog that should have been kept on a leash, all of the people were well behaved.  On the busiest day that we were out there I'd estimate that there were one hundred other boulderers also out there enjoying the weather.  But no music was playing, no one was littering, and one boulderer walked off (and returned with) a wag bag toilet kit.  I didn't see any chalk on the off limits boulder, and litter wise Kraft was the cleanest I've ever seen it.  Parts of Las Vegas and I-15 northeast of the city was a different story.  How can people let things get so trashed?  The air pollution in Vegas, Salt Lake City, and on the west side of South Pass here in Wyoming were also disturbing.  So my take home from the experience was that society has some issues to solve, but that bouldering areas can handle people alright if people do the right things.

And sometimes it's nice to have some people around.  Sierra had plenty of pads and encouragement for her "Monkey Bars" V2 send.

And I climbed "Vino Rojo" V6.  It's such a fun climb, but I doubt I would have even gone for it without the pads, spots, and beta offered by the other boulderers there that day.

Joe climbing "Vino Rojo" right after I did.
And it was fun for everyone to meet the friendly dogs like this one.
Our dogs weren't so friendly, so we had to keep them leashed the whole time.

We spent the last couple climbing days out at Windy Canyon.  On the first day we saw four other boulderers.  We were really impressed by the stone at Windy Canyon.  Even the no star warm ups are really nice.

Ashley on a very fun V3 with perfect stone.
Later that day we were lucky to meet Mike and Liz at "The Sting."  It's one of the best V4s anywhere, and by combining our pads we were able to make it safe enough for Mike, Ashley, and myself to top it out.

"The Sting"
On our final day at Windy Canyon we didn't see any other boulderers.  We warmed up on a crimpy line called "Handsome Boy" V3/4.  It's good, but it looks better than it climbs.
We were especially impressed with "Fritz Problem" V6.  It only gets one star in the guide, but it's an amazing sloper problem.  Ashley managed to do it, and then I tried so hard to do it too.  Unfortunately trying harder doesn't always help with slopers, and by the time I figured out my top out beta, I was too tired to execute it.
Those were the highlights of the climbing portion of our trip.  And I considered encouraging boulderers to spread out, and see the great areas outside of Kraft that Red Rocks has to offer, but then I reconsidered.  Kraft is where you want to go, and there isn't any good reason to go anywhere else until you've climbed out Kraft.  Kraft might seem crowded, but forty people can visit the Monkey Bars boulder, and if they don't spread out too much, and pick up after themselves their impact will be unnoticeable.  Forty more climbers at the more pristine areas like Windy Canyon could have an impact. I think concentrated numbers at a few boulders might actually be the best scenario for the Red Rocks environment in the long run.
But I don't want to end this post with a bunch of hand wringing about bouldering's impacts on the land.  It's there, but it's minimal in comparison to most other pursuits, and also in comparison to the joy that bouldering brings.  I was surprised to see so many other boulderers at Kraft, but we had a great time at Red Rocks this year, and the other boulderers were having a great time too.  It was a fun way to spend our holiday,  I'd do it all over again,  and I drove home feeling hopeful.

Happy New Year!