Things Are Different Now

A line of 5.10 ads says "Quit Your Job." Ashley took that advice last May, and it's been great for her climbing.  I'd estimate that she's jumped a couple grades since last year, and she appears to be as strong as she's ever been.  We both climbed Chris Marley's line "Mr. Smiley" V7 at the Rock Shop. But Ashley's beta looked more difficult.

Ashley seems pretty happy about the time off.

I went back to school with Autumn.  And Ashley's been traveling with Sierra, seeing the places we've always wanted to be able to see in the fall.  When you're teaching, fall is the one time of year that you never get to travel far.

Ash and Sierra enjoying Glacier National Park.

While they were away, Autumn came out to the Rock Shop with me and sent "Bobcat's" V1.  A line that I cleaned a couple hundred feet to the west of "Mr. Smiley."

Labor day weekend arrived, and we took advantage of it by getting back to Devil's Kitchen.

Ashley and Sierra demonstrated the efficient breakfast routine they'd perfected on their Glacier trip.

Sierra climbed very well on the trip, but I was just as proud of her for carrying her own pad in and out of the lower kitchen without complaint.

We re-brushed and climbed a few warm ups that had already been cleaned at some point in the past.

And then we went over to "Bumblespeak" V8.  On my first trip to the lower Kitchen I saw this line, and I knew that Ashley would like it.  I brushed up most of the line, and Jamie Emerson sent it later that fall.  It ended up taking until this year before I got Ashley down to it for an attempt, but it did suit her perfectly, and she sent it quickly.

Here's video of the ascent with just a couple long chalking rests, from jugs, edited out.



Then Sierra figured it out too!

I wasn't willing to put a full effort into "Bumblespeak."  I feared that I probably wouldn't be able to do it, and in the attempt use up the strength I needed to finally send my project.  It's a beautiful dynamic problem that doesn't suite my height.  It's called "Flying Machete Monster" V5.  

I only managed a stand start version, and just that felt at least V6 for me.

Happy with my send, I also appreciated the amazing landscape on the hike out.

Now true fall weather has arrived and I've been taking advantage of it by getting in after school bouldering sessions.  Soon the days will be to short for them.  My main objective has been the direct sit start project into "Delicate Diagonal" at the Source.

I'd been making progress, but I thought that it would be too reachy for Ashley and Sierra.  We spent a Saturday up there anyway, and Sierra sent the project!  Ashley sent it a few tries later.  Sierra thought that it was easier than "Bumblespeak," and Ashley thought that it was just as difficult.  Sierra named it "Mastery Challenge" after the final tests in Khan Academy units.

I use holds that Sierra can't reach, and the line feels like it could be V10 to me.  Take a look at Sierra's sequence below, and try to imagine a larger climber making it work.  It doesn't even feel possible.

As I write this, Ashley and Sierra are on the road again.

Sierra sent "Big Boy" V7 at Joes Valley, UT

And they've also visited Priest Draw, AZ

While they've been away, Autumn and I returned to one of my high priority projects at Deer Park.

We had perfect weather for it last Saturday.

My original sessions on this line started with a very difficult, awkward, and crimpy traverse into the feature from the left.  That start adds significant difficulty, but also takes away stars from the line and began to seem contrived.  I decided to start the line from a different sit start, right below the boulder's main feature.  The right hand starts on the crimp shown below, and the left hand starts ~18 inches lower than pictured from a nice sloper.  From the start that I did it's a classic V6/7 called "Autumnal."  A right leg knee pad allowed me to get a good knee bar on the first ascent.

The move from a perfect pinch to the lip is especially fun.

I'm very happy with this line!

I also put up a new V3 on the right side of the Focus and Flow Wall called "Crimpy Temps."

And another V3 nearby called "Perfect Fit."

Temps are dropping, Ashley's traveling, Sierra's sending, all of us are hiking, projects are falling. The times are changing.

One Avocation, Many Ways to Contribute

The wildflowers this year at the Cabin Boulders.

I'm so fond of summer, and time off.  Time to feel un-rushed.  And to pursue the more time consuming aspects of bouldering development.  Last week after work, Justin gave me a tour of boulders he's been developing up canyon from the Cabin Boulders.  Calen arrived that day from Las Vegas for an extended Wyoming trip, and joined us at the fresh blocks.  We warmed up, tried a very difficult project, and then went up to "Ocean Man."  "Ocean Man" is a great V5 Justin put up that moves up progressively smaller crimps.  You can crank off a tiny crimp to the top, or dyno up from lower holds.

Justin also got the first ascent of the V4 SDS arete just to the right of "Ocean Man" that evening.

The Upper Canyons still have a lot of lines to do.  So we cleaned up the boulder below.  Often bouldering developers spread out, find their own line, and clean it alone.  But on this night, all three of us brushed up this block at the same time.  I climbed the left line first try, despite the fact that it was still a little dirty, and called it "Scrub a Dub Dub" V3.  Calen did a line from the same start moving right called "Three Men in a Tub" V1.

Calen climbing "Scrub a Dub Dub."

It got dark, and was time to go.  But I was impressed by the bouldering Justin developed in this set of boulders.  I'd already hiked through this area years ago, and had dismissed the blocks as being too dirty and lichen covered to be worth developing.  Justin had a different vision.  He's developed boulders at Lolo in Montana that were just as moss and lichen covered when they were found, so he knew that good bouldering might be found underneath.  The area has so much lichen and moss because the blocks are very shaded and very near to the river.  Those two factors improve the venue once the lichen and moss are removed.  The Upper Cabins still have work to be done, but it's already a good area and will only get better.  A great contribution to Lander bouldering!

The next day Calen and I hiked way up into the Roaring Fork and found a new sector of blocks.  It's a good sector and it will be developed, but I didn't take my camera, and we were too tired to hike back to it again the next day.  So we went to the Rock Shop instead.  Every time I go up there I'm reminded that we have very high quality rock to develop that you barely need to hike for.  I know I've gotten a little stronger, because I climbed two lines that I couldn't quite finish last Fall, "Escape From Reality" and "If, Then, Because."

Calen is off the couch from a finger injury.  So he's brushing easier lines than when he visited last fall, but he hasn't lost his eye for good lines.  On the "Chocolate Thunder" boulder he added two great looking problems.  Both begin underclinging the hueco.  Going up the arete is "Big Fudge" and going up the crack is "Skid Marks."  I haven't climbed them yet, but plan to soon.  

The day after that, we drove to Neverland for a three day trip.  It was just as gorgeous as I remembered.

Conditions were amazingly crisp for June!  On our first morning the dog bowl was covered in ice, and frost covered our truck.

Clear fall-like skies, cool air, low humidity, and everything was green!

Davin had taken advantage of the recent cool weather to do his V10 crimp project.  He climbed up to the high jug, mantled onto it, and then down climbed a little and dropped off.  Nothing wrong with that. When a V10 line leads to an obvious jug, and can only be topped out with a free solo,  I think it's better to leave the line as a drop off problem.  Bouldering is about hard climbing, not risking your life.

Davin drove up back up to Neverland to meet us, gave us a tour of blocks further down the hill, cleaned some lines, and almost got sucked into starting on another spring project up there.

On Tuesday, Calen and I hiked east from camp to a ridge that looked good from a distance.  We found some good lines, but nothing like the blocks Davin showed us on the tours.  All of Neverland is good rock, but the outstanding lines aren't everywhere.  That's why we drive miles of two tracks past dozens of gneiss formations to camp at an area with many outstanding lines.  From the initial discovery of Old Neverland by Bryan V., to Davin's exploration of at least 20 other sectors, the driving and hiking required to get to know this entire vast area is staggering.  And it's really paid off!  The best of Neverland is world class, and finding the best spots took a lot of work.  Thanks again Bryan and Davin!

Off the couch, Calen lacked the power endurance needed for "Wilford's Reserve."  Turns out that I still lack the power endurance for "Wilford's Reserve," but I didn't realize that until the end of the trip. Calen was able to make impressive progress on "Wilford's Reserve Right"  

  

Warming up on Monday, I added a new line that starts on "Aging Moose" moves left past an amazing jug, and past a nice crimp rail, to a top out right of "Bullwinkle."  Great climbing on amazing stone!

"Rocky" V3

We spent the afternoon in the Black Boulder sector.  Calen went up the formation where he cleaned and climbed two new lines.  "Surf Wyoming" V4 uses big moves between big holds using both sides of a large feature up the roof.  His other line goes up the crack to the right, (seen above Roo) moves to another crack out right, and then hits the top.  You rock over your feet to the left and top out.  It's called "Toes on the Nose"V2.

In addition to exploring the new ridge that was somewhat disappointing, we spent Tuesday exploring the main sector too.  I'm excited about, and a little scared of, lines on Wilford's Boulder.  (Not to be confused with Wilford's Reserve)  All the lines look amazing enough to pull me in, but are also quite tall.

Tuesday evening, it was time to decide what I wanted to climb on Wednesday.  One line on the Black Boulder had gotten my attention.  I liked the fact that no one had been working on it yet.  The stone on it was amazing.  It was a long problem, but not too long, and the top out looked doable, but difficult.  It would need some cleaning, but I'd brought the gear.  I set up an anchor using 4 cams, and rapped down to brush off the top.  An hour later it was ready to go.  I got back to camp just in time to watch the sunset from a formation above camp.  We hoped to hear and maybe see the coyotes that sing most nights as the sun goes down.  It was windy, and we didn't hear any howls, but quite a few nighthawks flew right past us in the fading light.  I was reminded that I really like nighthawks.  During my childhood in Iowa I carved and threw cross stick boomerangs.  At sunset the nighthawks would swoop at them.

Roo in the breeze at sunset.

On Wednesday, I only gave myself two attempts on "Wilford's Reserve" because I wanted to save some juice for the new line.  I'm glad that I did because the project took all the juice that I had.  The end is really hard to do after hanging on through the start.  No single move is that hard so I'm calling it V6.  But in total it's really difficult, and I don't suspect anyone will want to downrate it.  Without Calen's spot I probably wouldn't have finished it.  Thanks Calen!

"Nighthawk" V6

It's my favorite first ascent ever.  I think it's a world class line, and I hope others will enjoy it as much as I do.

Back in Lander, I took Ashley on a tour of the Upper Cabins.  We were greeted by this marmot on the hike in.

Ashley and I did a few of Justin's established lines like "The Mollusk," "Bananas and Blow" and "Ocean Man."  Then we ended the day by cleaning and climbing a new traverse.  It's a V4/5 that Ashley did first.  It's named "Blow It or Blow It."  If you don't blow any dirt off of the holds before you're attempt you'll probably fall off.

Today was Fathers Day, and we spent it at the Source.  I didn't send anything new, but I figured out beta on the new "Southern Smoke."  A crimp broke last Fall, and I think it's a V8 now.  I also figured out my moves for "The Caterpillar Arete Traverse."  You can't send everyday.  But if you brush something, explore someplace new, pick up some litter, or just share a few inspiring photos, I think you've contributed to this avocation we call bouldering.

Psyched on the Source Again

The first ascent of "The Aftermath" V5.

A couple exploratory fridays ago, I decided it was finally time to clean up a few of the amazing projects on the summit of the Tombstone formation.  I was somewhat surprised that they were still undone.  It felt like I was giving them away when I put a full page photo of the blocks on page 114 of the guide with a caption reading "The Tombstone formation and it's summit projects as seen from the North."  I'd considered leaving the photo out of the guide in order to give myself more time to finish what looked like some of the best undone lines I'd ever seen.  But it's been almost four months since the book came out, and no one had even tried them yet.  They remained without chalk, cracks thick with lichen, completely undisturbed.  I set up a rope, got on rappel, and spent an evening brushing.  A small storm came through, a double rainbow formed two thirds of a circle to the east, and the sun lit the clouds in the west.  A spectacular sight, and nice way to spend an evening after a hectic school day.  But I was alone, and ascents would need to wait.

The next Friday, Calen and Meghan met me at the Tombstone.  Not only were they interested in spending an evening cleaning problems with me, but Calen had spent the day finding and cleaning new lines at the Source.  We brushed a lot of lines, climbed a few, and then I needed to make a decision about what would become "The Aftermath."  It might be possible for me to work the highball line ground up.  Falling or down climbing from progressively higher points until I committed to going for the top.  That's what John Sherman would have done.  But it was also very possible that I'd hurt myself badly if I fell from the top half of the line.  I remembered that John Sherman's style of highball first ascents, though courageous, had caused him to have a lot of injuries including aggravated arthritis in both of his hips.  The newly brushed line looked somewhat insecure, falling off it would be scary, but it was the possible aftermath of falling that really influenced my decision.  In my head I questioned "What if I fell, got hurt, and couldn't boulder for a while, or ever again?  What if I end up with as many injuries as John Sherman?"  My inner voice shouted in response to the thought "I'M NOT READY TO TAKE UP WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY!"  A clear sign that I'd better rope up.  Calen belayed me and I fell a couple times.  I tried it a second time, and got to the top without falling on the rope.  The next day I brought the family, and we met Calen and Meghan at the Tombstone again.  Ashley toproped the line, and I decided to toprope it a couple more times.  My beta improved with practice, and I felt ready to give it a try without a rope.  Calen spotted, Ashley took photos, I turned off the worried part of my brain, and just climbed it.  It felt wonderful.      

It's a difficult problem to rate.  Working it from the ground would probably feel V5.  With toprope rehearsal I refined my beta until the moves felt V4.  But it's a problem that probably isn't appropriate for anyone that can't boulder V6.  As far as quality goes, I think it's on par with Nexus.  One of the best first ascents of my life.

This wasn't our first session with Calen and Meghan.  They drove up two weekends ago from the Las Vegas area to visit Lander, do some sport climbing, and check out the bouldering.  We took them to the Rock Shop on their first weekend.  But they didn't ask for a tour of the classics.  Calen said he wanted to climb wherever we were going, and maybe put up some lines himself.

Calen climbing "Pork Chop."  A classic put up by Bryan V.  

As we climbed and brushed, Calen kept asking "Has that been climbed? Has anyone checked out that formation? Why hasn't this been climbed?  Is this for real?" His enthusiasm was contagious, and I realized I'd been taking some amazing things for granted.  Doing first ascents at the Rock Shop had just become an expected part of my normal weekend routine.  Listening to Calen's enthusiasm made the area feel new again.  We made our way to the summit above "Pork Chop" and did the first ascents of three new problems including a V4 roof called "Pit Viper."  Calen had a good session, and decided to buy a full set of brushes.

On Labor Day Calen gave us a tour of new lines he'd established at the Source the previous Friday.  Just south of the problem "South" at Source South is this boulder.  I hadn't gotten around to cleaning it because it looked a little short, but it climbs so well!  Calen has a great eye for lines.  He got the first ascent of "Anti venom" V6*** which starts on the lowest right rail and climbs left to an interesting undercling to sloper top out.  The moves and rock quality feel just like the good stuff at Squamish.  "Snake Wrangler" V4** climbs the arete and moves right along the lip to two possible top outs.

Uphill to the north are a couple more lines added by Calen.  They both start sitting at the horizontal.  "Longmire" climbs the left arete, and "Long Arm of the Law" climbs the right.  Both are in the V4 or 5 range.

Calen also noticed this slopey feature on the boulder just right of "The Aftermath."  He spent an hour or two on Saturday morning brushing it on rappel.

Calen did the line from a stand start on Saturday evening, but didn't finish it from the sit start.  After our tour of Calen's new lines at the Source on Monday, we headed over to the Tombstone for another try.  Calen let us work the line with him.  Ashley made quick progress, using some of my beta, and ended up nabbing the first ascent.  I got the second ascent a few tries later.  The problem's called "The Arrowhead" and we think it's a V6.  

Ashley climbing "The Arrowhead."

Another instant classic, but I hadn't noticed it.  It wasn't steep enough to catch my eye, but Calen saw that it was a beautiful feature that could climb really well.  He was right!

In the chimney just behind "Arrowhead" is a new easy, committing, and somewhat scary problem. A granite version of the "Plumber's Crack" at Red Rocks, Nevada.  Try it if you're confident.

"Do or Die" V0

A new warm up wall with many variations, and a couple other problems were cleaned and climbed on the west side of the summit.  I'll post more info when I have photos.

In just a two week trip Calen established at least fifteen new boulder problems, with days spent sport climbing at Wild Iris and Tensleep as well.  Thanks Calen and Meghan for making plans with us, cleaning and climbing so many great new lines, and helping me see these areas with fresh eyes again.  Have a good trip back to Vegas, and we hope to see you in Lander again soon!