Saturday, March 21, 2009

Missing Hueco Already.

We had a spectacular final day of climbing at Hueco. We got back out with the tour group we climbed with on the first day, but instead of going back to Ultramega we toured the East Spur. We stopped on the edge of East mountain on the way, and warmed up to try "Sex After Death." The problem looked good, and I didn't warm up for long before starting to work out the moves. Mike had excellent beta on the problem. Jeremiah watched for a little bit, and then flashed the problem.

Watching someone climb something seems to help me a lot. I topped out the problem, and then Ashley really got committed to doing it too, but she insisted on climbing it static so it took her a few tries. Right after Ashley sent it, Mike jumped back on and did the line.
Mike climbing "Sex After Death."


The sending could have ended there, and I would have been satisfied with the day. But it didn't.

From there we went to the East Spur Maze. A maze of boulders covered with boulder problems. A low ball finger tip crack in a dihedral roof called "This is Your Brain on Drugs" screamed Ashley's name, and we couldn't pass it by. Much like a backwards version of Vedauwoo's "The Tempest" but without a sloper topout, Ashley climbed it pretty quickly. I realized I didn't have the power to do it, and moved on to "Jigsaw Puzzle" which was just around the corner. It climbs a section of very unique rock, is a bit pumpy, and has a slightly awkward ending above a bad landing. I backed off it once, practiced the end, and then did the line. Ashley did the exact same three steps.



I worked on "The Egg" but it felt very conditions dependent. Ashley worked on "Better Eat Your Wheaties," but didn't have the skin or power left to finish it. From there we went to "New Religion." I felt worked, but I was so psyched by the line that I jumped right on. Mike helped by giving me some beta. I gave the line everything I had left, and it worked. I topped it out feeling overjoyed with the day. Ashley took photos, and the one below captures the great energy of the group we were with. They helped us both try harder, and climb better.

With an hour left before the park closed, I repeated "Walrus In Blender" and then was so worked that I couldn't complete the moderate "Layback and Like It" traverse. Then it was time to say goodbye to Hueco.

Now we're back. Our daughters are safe and happy, my Mom and sisters had a good time watching them. Everything is as it was when we left, but it seems that even a natural high leaves a bit of a hangover. The week was so good, that both Ashley and I are a little down that it's done. We'll get back someday.

In other news, Front Range Bouldering posted an interview with me. Check it out while it's still up.

4 comments:

Ricky said...

It's awesome to see you've had an amazing trip! That B&B you stayed in looked delightful! I can't wait to make it to Hueco . . . You're interview was insightful as well but . . . 145 lbs? You're kidding!

David said...

No joke, that's my average weight. I hope you'll still spot me.

Daniel Brayack said...

NICE ! I like your blog =)

Ricky said...

You've always got my spot, David, especially when you bring me up to Needle Peak!