Monday, October 3, 2011

Getting Things Done at Wild Iris and Sweetwater

Time is precious this time of year. The weather doesn't get any better, and you never know when it will turn for the worse. School has been keeping us very busy, but we've been taking advantage of the beautiful days to the fullest extent possible. I've been climbing Saturdays and Sundays. School work gets done at night, and sleep gets put off until later. There is so much to get done! And climbing projects are a significant part of it.

At Wild Iris we spent last weekend doing a little sport climbing, and bouldering on a pocket covered roof called "Frankenstein."

The leaves were at their peak.

I put together some video of "Frankenstein" which can be seen in the post below this one.

Kyle and Sophia spent the afternoon on the cliffs, and I got a few shots of them.
Kyle got off sequence, took the whip, and hung out for a bit.
Gorgeous weather, landscape, and aspen!
We went back yesterday, and Ashley completed "Frankenstein" from the low start. A difficult test of power endurance that Ashley sent more quickly than I expected. That's the second line in a few weeks she's done that I couldn't. Nice work Ash!

In other news, things are beginning to cool down out at Sweetwater Rocks, and a new season of development at the God Eye area has begun.
Jesse and Danny came out with me on Saturday to help put up some new lines.

Here they are checking out a project for a cooler day in the God Eye Gully.
I was very excited to get back to a patina covered face I'd happened across. I've never seen wood-like patina as extensive as this before.
The pressure was on to pluck the first ascents. A fun game, with close odds. Jesse got things started with a flash first ascent of "Rattlesnake Arete" V3/4. I didn't get a photo, but maybe Jesse or Danny will send me one to add to the post.

I got the first couple tries on the patina project, but then it was fair game, and the game was on!

Jesse approaching the crux.
A few shots of Danny on the project.

Quite motivated, I snagged the first ascent and named it "Norwegian Wood." It felt pretty difficult in the warm temps, but I think it will be V6 in good conditions. It's one of the highest quality first ascents I've done. Danny got the second ascent soon after, with cool looking beta. It would have been good for video, but I didn't have my tripod packed.

Danny and Jesse got on an interesting roof, I put up while exploring, and named "Take it Easy." It was moderate for me, but appears to be more difficult for taller climbers. Danny did it my way.

And Jesse tried some difficult but straight forward beta, after getting frustrated with my crunched and twisted undercling method.
I added a sit start, after Danny saw that one could be done. And then we moved on to check out some more boulders.

Danny seemed a bit hot and tired, but he was very motivated to finish the line below. I was getting close, and I could barely believe it when he topped it out first, with little rest, towards the end of the session. It was cool to see though!

"Metropolitan Glide" V5

It inspired me. Through determination and pain tolerance, I managed a second ascent of the line. While Danny and I worked on the short, powerful line, Jesse spent his time putting up two more problems. A tall line, and a dynamic one. "Urban Sprawl" is an intimidating line on glassy holds that ascends the wall seen behind Jesse in the photo above. "City Center" is on the boulder to Danny's left. Jesse felt both of them were V3.

The view from City Sector.
Seven new problems were done, four of which I'd consider classics of the area. It was a very fun and productive day. Thanks for coming out Danny and Jesse, and I hope we can get back on a cooler day soon!

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