Friday, June 19, 2009

The Body Dump, Vedauwoo

On Tuesday and Friday we bouldered in Vedauwoo at the Body Dump. A frightening name for a really nice place. Luckily, we didn't see any bodies. Tuesday was windy, and rain shortened our session. Friday was perfect, partly sunny with nice cool temps. I spent a day looking for the Body Dump last summer, and didn't find it. This year I had a guide to the area we received at the Vedauwoo Bouldering Comp last fall. It was farther east than I had expected, and is it's own small formation. Last year I missed it by looking all around the large formation to the west. The boulders surrounding the area are standard Vedauwoo boulders covered with crystals. The Body Dump formation is completely covered in patina.

The Body Dump


The standard short, flat, and pretty Vedauwoo approach.


The first classic problem we did is called "Pogo Left." Solid, incut, friendly patina crimps up a tall bulging face.



From there I moved on to "The Pogo Stick." This is a tricky problem, that took me two sessions due to it's devious nature.



Eventually I learned that just because a problem has a nice looking chalked undercling hueco on it, that doesn't mean you have to use it. On Friday I tried a new sequence using what appeared from the ground to be unusable slimpers, and it worked.

Ashley's main goal was just to get a good workout. The guide had a problem named "Good Roof Traverse" and we went over to check it out. The same boulder also had a project listed in the guide. We found the sharp crimps Davin's guide described, and Ashley got psyched. Small moves on small sharp incut holds with frustratingly high foot holds, a rock slab just behind which requires powerful pulling just to keep off the ground. We had to take a single layer of foam out of Ashley's pad. Anything thicker made it impossible not to dab. A "Classic Ashley" first ascent only recommended for climbers with really strong fingers, and really short arms. Ashley called it "Stickworm Roof" after a caterpillar we found on the line. The name fits the problem well.



Ashley climbed it a second time for video.


A classic problem at the Body Dump that shouldn't be missed is "From Minnesota With Love." Perfect incut patina jugs, widely spaced, high above a sketchy landing. It's Vedauwoo's version of "The Melon Patch" at Hueco. It even has a good sit-start.




Just to the east of the Body Dump is another small formation with a few really good problems.
Ashley climbing the aptly named, classic moderate, "The Urinal."

We ended the day on "The Warlock." A good problem with wide strenuous moves, on big sidepulls.
Ashley about to stretch.

Sundance chilling like a border collie.

With all the rain, wildflowers are growing everywhere.

It's hard to clean up my projects when there are still bouldering areas around that I haven't checked out yet. This was a really fun one.

2 comments:

Simeon Caskey said...

Also looking for directions to the Body Dump area, thanks again!

-Simeon

Lloyd Family said...

Drive down Vedauwoo Road to the east. On the right is road 700E. Take it to the fence, always staying right. Park at the fence and follow it eastward. The Body Dump is a smaller formation at the north east side of the obvious big formation south of the fence. It's crazy that there is an area of wonderful patina covered stone surrounded by lots of stone that is all crystals.