Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Return to the Falcon's Lair

On Sunday Alan, Bryan, and I hiked into the Falcon's Lair. It looked like it might be a rainy day as we drove in, but the clouds cleared and the weather was perfect all day. We began our day at the Lander boulder, and had a balanced session. About a third of our time was spent on problems done last trip, the other third exploring, and a third trying new lines. Alan committed on his first try, and did the first ascent of "Danger Danger." It involves pulling on a large insecure looking block/flake, and then topping out over a pit. Fun stuff, despite the danger.

Bryan climbing "Danger Danger" V1.

We attempted five new lines that looked to me like they would fall into the V4-7 range, but each one included at least one move we couldn't do. Many had great finishing moves, but we weren't able to climb to them from the best looking starting holds. It was a little frustrating.

Trying a line that should start by my feet.
Bryan climbing "Capp's Slap."

We did a lot of exploration, and saw many good lines. On the sunny side of the canyon the granite isn't as clean, and the talus is a little smaller than it looks from a distance. It will still be really good, but it will take more cleaning, and be less concentrated than I originally imagined.

This line is definitely worth cleaning.
Rather than break out the brushes, we went up to the Ice Cave. I came closer than ever to sending "Wind in the Willows," but I'll need another trip. Alan and Bryan climbed "Cracked Eggs."

Alan at the start of "Cracked Eggs."

And Alan did another first ascent, "Sidewalk" V3.

Named after the white streak leading to the top.

"The Twins" looks beautiful, but is pretty low angle. A great V0 or a scrunchy, silly feeling, V1/2 sit start.

"The Twins"

This wall was the first to catch our attention during the exploration day. It's a nice height, it's featured, but unfortunately it lacks feet and everything faces the wrong way. We tried two lines, and couldn't get up either.
Many of the best looking walls were seen during our hike out, and I got psyched for the next trip.

The future.
It was fun showing Alan and Bryan around. Thanks for coming out, and letting me jump on so many lines. Another big beautiful day in the alpine. The next day, my whole body felt worked. Upper body sore from the bouldering, lower from the hiking. All I wanted to do was eat, hydrate, and watch TV... like a normal American.


Davin said...

Looks like you had a great day!

Awesome to hear you got so close to finishing Wind in the Willows. Next weekend for sure!

Lloyd Family said...

We did, and I can't wait to get back in.

Just sent my project at the Source this evening. Psyched!!! I'll put the video up soon.

Unknown said...

Ran into you guys at the monkey bar boulder in Red Rocks... The Falcon's Lair looks awesome! I am going to be in the Lander area in 2weeks and would love to check it out. Keep up the good work!

Calen from Las Vegas

Lloyd Family said...

Hey Calen,
Give me a call when you get into Lander. Falcon's Lair could work on a Saturday, or we could get out for an evening session closer to town. 307-438-0755

Unknown said...

Sounds amazing! I will be sure to give you a call. I'm planning on getting into town the 29th. Until then... Good luck on those projects.