Tuesday, August 23, 2011

Happenings from the Falcon's Lair, and the Source

Today Ashley and I were planning to head out for a bouldering session after school. But the stress of school, and the heat of August, left us exhausted and unmotivated. We stayed home, and I'm catching up on the blogging instead.

On Saturday, I had another incredible day of bouldering at the Falcon's Lair with Davin and Jesse. Each of us left our most exciting projects unfinished, but it was still a great day. Every day I go up there, I come back with at least three more days worth of bouldering that I need to do. So I now have nine sessions worth of bouldering planned out at the Falcon's Lair without even looking for more lines. The projects just keep multiplying.

Davin trying a sit start amongst the alpine flowers.
Jesse got the day started with the first ascent of a tall slab left of "Danger Danger" called "That Easy." I added a sit down start which adds three good moves and bumps the grade up to V5 "Not That Easy."
Two slopers make it go.

We went up the hill for some more work in the Ice Cave. Later we found the stunning line Davin is on below.
It's still a project, and I'm torn on which problem should be my priority. The first ascent of the line above or finally finishing off "Wind in the Willows."

Davin climbing his new slab called "A Fine Evening Indeed."
Jesse spotted this roof/arete line in the morning, and it consumed most of his session.
He cleaned it top to bottom.
Jumped on the start.
Used a few toe hooks.
And came so close to finishing it, twice. It will be a great problem once it's completed.
During every session we've hiked out in nice light. One of the perks of the big days up there.
Thanks for the great day of bouldering and conversation, Davin and Jesse! You can read Davin's account of the day at A Place of Legend.

On Sunday, I decided to take Ashley up Torrey Valley for a session on the Mead boulder. In my memory it sat in the shade of the forest.
Turned out, it was in full sun, and we called the session off after only warming up. A gym session was scheduled for after school the next day.

Source Sessions
During the last few weeks of summer break, I spent many sessions at the Source by myself, and a few more with Ashley. My main motivation was a project which took me four sessions to climb. It's the most difficult first ascent I've done. The only first ascent I've completed which pushed me as hard as the most difficult established problems I've climbed. I really enjoyed heading up during the evenings with three pads, watching the sunset over the Winds, and climbing in silence.

Right after we got back from Squamish I was more psyched on lip traverses than usual. I realized that good ones can be fun. So I added a V3 lip traverse at the Source.

Ashley climbing "A Lip Traverse."

The same week, I connected a low roof into a problem I completed last year named "Thug." The new version doubles the moves, and pushes the difficulty up two grades. Alan put a lot of work into helping me clean the roof. I've given the full problem the new name "John Henry."

It requires a painful hand jam, powerful crimping, and it's at the Source. Ashley says "It will never be repeated."

Another day, Ashley joined me for some work on the south side of the formation near the "Serpent Traverse." Some cleaning and landing work has been done by someone (Chris?), and new lines and projects have been established. Ashley and I enjoyed a new short line that had great movement despite it's lack of height.
An unknown V4/5 from the lowest holds.
We also worked on a line which we think might still be a project? Powerful!!
That's all the news and photos I have to share at the moment. It feels good to be caught up on the blogging for a little while. Plenty more could have been written, but I've got so many other things I should be doing. Got to keep working for the weekend.

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