Perfect Conditions

Jessie on "Addiction"

Today's combination of warm sun and a light crisp breeze couldn't have been any better. We've got a great routine going in Sinks Canyon. We finish a former project and end up working on a new one pretty much everyday we get up there. Today we both redpointed "Drug Enemy" and got a great workout making toprope attempts on "Public Enemy."

We also watched Jessie on his project.

Today was so much fun, our Winter and Spring sessions at Sinks have been fantastic. But it's always good to mix things up a bit. My next post will include climbing from beyond Sinks Canyon.

A Daylight Savings Account

The extra hour of light after school has allowed us to begin getting full afternoon sessions again. On Monday, Ashley completed her high version of the "Sit Start Back Pocket to Double Clutch." Her line of handholds angles into the upper half of "Double Clutch" outside of the tree's shadow. It looked sharp and fragile so I didn't try it.

From there we hiked to the Cheese Grater Boulders. Ashley repeated "West Face" on the Easy Cheese Grater boulder for the first time in many years. I climbed it for the first time, after having tried it on at least three very widely spaced occasions.


Difficult, fun, and engaging.

On Wednesday we climbed on the "Rubber Blanket Boulder." Ashley's objective was "Jeremy's Traverse." I needed a new project. So I grabbed onto the jug known as the "Spare Tire," and began trying to reverse "Jeremy's Traverse" to a no hands rest in the "Corner." Ashley noticed me making some progress, and decided to take a break from "Jeremy's" and start working on my project. I ended up too worked to send it, and Ashley snaked it from me. She's calling it "Migration Traverse" until we hear it that it has already been named. It's easier than "Jeremy's Traverse" for Ashley, but feels just as difficult for me. Combining "The Lil' Brown Reeker" with "Migration Traverse" is the obvious, pumpy, and difficult next step.

Ashley on "Jeremy's Traverse" or "Migration Traverse" depending on direction.

As the days get longer, soon our sessions will have to end at bedtime.

Sunset is already almost too late.

The Boulder Band

Sundance at the Band today.

The Boulder Band has tons of easy problems, good limestone, and melts out quickly. Today was cool and cloudy, and it was our best bet for a good session. We had fun on lots of problems, and still have a couple left to return to.
Ashley climbing problem #33 in the guide.



A variation on "Hangover." Not difficult, but a bit high and a bit dirty, forcing me to focus.

This traverse, problem 36 in the guide, provided the majority of our workout. We did it right to left, then left to right. Then Ashley did it both ways, both possible ways.

Ashley climbing the day's final problem.



The forecast called for snow last Wednesday, so we rushed out to the Back Pocket boulder for a quick session Tuesday after school. I finished off the "Sit Start Back Pocket to Double Clutch" after 4 sessions during the last couple months. With warmer weather and day light savings time, we're planning to get out for more after school climbing.

Climbing Narc posted an interesting question this week asking people how much money it would take to convince them to give up climbing for the rest of their life. Ashley and I both felt that it would take multiple millions before we'd give up the sport. Made me realize that we're quite lucky to have a lifestyle that we value so highly.

Two Sessions in One Weekend

Weather and scheduling worked well together, and we were able to head outside on Saturday and Sunday. The warm weather provided pleasant bouldering on Saturday, but as we warmed up so did the boulder. Small patches of snow on the boulder's top began to melt and eventually essential holds were soaked. We couldn't finish off our project, "Sit Start Back Pocket to Double Clutch," but we each learned new slightly easier sequences through our separate cruxes.





We'll get back to finish it when the top is snow free.

On Sunday we went sportclimbing. We warmed up on "South Paw" and worked on "Purple Galaxy" which seemed hard at first, but eased up with practice. We both got clean toprope ascents, and still need to get back to it for redpoint burns.

With projects piling up, we'll need to keep doubling up on weekends. A positive feedback loop.