Monday, January 12, 2009
Doughboy Sessions, Carter Lake
A few years ago a new boulder fell out of the hillside at Carter Lake. A tall problem was established on the Northeast arete of the block called "Dough Boy." I first tried the problem last year, and worked out some moves, but couldn't get high enough to get scared.
Friday Jan. 2nd, Ashley and I went back to Carter and I climbed to a good hold about five feet from the top of the problem. By the time I got there, after many attempts, I was pumped and unwilling to commit to the top portion.
I really needed to get back for a rematch.
We made plans to get out with Ricky on Sunday, but woke up to cold and cloudy weather. So we called off our plans, went to the gym, and began climbing. A half hour later I noticed the clouds were thinning, and could see some blue skies. The obsessive side of me kicked in. I stopped climbing, and totally reworked my plan for the day. I convinced Ashley to get a quick workout so I could leave for Carter at 2 o'clock. I called Ricky, and then Ashley called Ricky. It was obvious he didn't want to go out, but we countered his every excuse. We wore down his resistance until he agreed to ride down with me. I felt a little guilty for pushing so hard, but what choice did I have? I needed a spot.
Already warmed up, I jumped right on "Dough Boy," but slipped off the second crux on my first two tries.
Ricky took these photos of my first attempt.
I took a short break while Ricky worked on "Kahuna Roof," and then we went back to "Dough Boy." On the third attempt of the day I got through the cruxes to the good hold five feet from the top. This time I committed to the high step, and made it over the top. My whole body was quivering, but it was a good time. If you like powerful, insecure, tension climbing with bad feet leading to committing moves 16 feet off the deck, then check it out. It's definitely 4 star. Ricky spotted, so we didn't get shots of the top out. I wasn't willing to repeat it.
We spent the rest of the session on "Kahuna Roof." One of the best problems on the Front Range.
Ricky on "Kahuna Roof."
Thanks for coming out Ricky. It was a great time.
Ricky wrote a fun post about the day from his point of view. Check it out at The World According to the Rick-Mo Squad.