Lloyd Climbing Blog: One Weekend, Two Sessions

Sunday, November 16, 2008

One Weekend, Two Sessions

The weather was great this weekend, and Ashley and I both wanted to get on projects at different areas. We went back to Eldo on Saturday, and Ashley managed to finish her traverse project on the third full try of the day. It's a nice (but sharp) variation on the Pony Keg Traverse. Based on descriptions in Benningfield's "Colorado Bouldering 2" It sit starts on "The Rail" then traverses left on the horizontal seam, off-routing holds above the seam, and ends by doing the "Fingertip Traverse." Ashley was very psyched to send it.

Ashley decided to end the day on "Ron's Keg Traverse." Ashley managed to work out all the moves. Some of them are really long for her, and require interesting beta. Below is one of the coolest moves on the line.

Now Ashley has another project to get at Eldo. We met Adam, and talked about the new development Chuffer has mentioned. We hope to check some of it out on our next visit.

Sunday I went to Red Feather.

My goal was to climb the Clockworks Arete. It has a left side problem, and a right side problem. I was hoping to get up one of them. I contacted a lot of people, but ended up at the boulder by myself. It's harder to commit to big moves when you're by yourself, far from the car, without cell phone reception, but I think I tried hard enough to figure out that the left side won't go for me. I'll still need at least on more session on the right side before I'll know if it will go or not. Between attempts I spent time messing with my camera timer and tripod, photographing myself.

I needed to climb something new, so I searched for a boulder Jacob calls "That Guy's House." I walked up a couple wrong gullies, but found it eventually. After climbing a cool crack on the South side I found this line on the North side. At first I thought it was going to be difficult, but once I found the right holds and heel hooks it went at about V3. It's a fun problem.