So much has been going on at the Rock Shop, that it's time to write up a report.
Yesterday was very exciting for us, because Ashley finished a project that we've spent many days on over the last three summers. At the end of last summer we'd given up on the line, but we've both felt stronger this year, so we started working on it again. The line uses a set of slippery slopey crimps to connect the V5 opening moves of "Boulder of Montana" into the start of the painfully crimpy V6 "To the Pain." This creates a long line that requires good power endurance, and strong core strength to take advantage of high a left foot smear and a heel hook on a small edge.
Here is the uncut video of the hardest first ascent that Ashley has ever done.
The Rock Shop also saw a lot of activity due to the International Climbers' Festival. Alex Johnson lead a bouldering clinic out there with Kian acting as the tour guide. And Carlo Traversi lead a clinic that I helped out with. During Carlo's clinic I witnessed what I believe is the first flash of "The Giving Tree" V10 by Carlo.
During the clinic I showed Carlo three undone projects that were nearby. One of them was the tall line that Mike had put some time into.
After the clinic officially ended, quite a few people stayed to get a tour of Nexus and the problems around it. The conditions were alright, but Nexus is a fingery problem to try at the end of a session. Progress was made, but it didn't see any repeats while I was there.
Working on "Philanderer" is reasonable now that Chris has built a deck of sticks and string below it. But no one actually falls on the deck, because it's still scary and the top out holds of "Philanderer" are actually pretty good.
Steve working out the top out over the deck.
Quite a few other first ascents have been done too. Stephen did a new line called "Money Train" near the "Grave Wave." On the way there you can climb Charlie's first first ascent called "Against All Odds" V4. And Jesse recently put up a new compression line out the overhang on the Swan Boulder.
Kian and I spent time cleaning all the holds and cracks on the warm up boulder next to the UFO. Then we climbed every variation we could think of.
In other news "Lord of the Flies" has changed significantly for climbers shorter than 5'6", but it still goes with new beta at about V6.
I almost forgot to mention a new V3 called "Jet Stream" that Ashley added just west of "Pain and Perfection.
Our daughters have also been enjoying the climbing there.
And we've been getting out there with many friends.
Ben working on "To the Pain."