We've spent the last couple weekends developing a new (seemingly undeveloped) sandstone sector in Sinks Canyon. It's been called "The Beach," because it has warm temps, and sandy stone.
Shane on the first ascent of "Black Slabbath" at the Beach.
But we need to finish some more lines before I can do a complete post on the area. It's hard to say how long it will take to send our projects there. So it could be a little while before I'm ready post about anything new. But I've still got some older things to post about. So much happened last year; I felt it was time to get it all organized.Below is an attempt to compile recent Lander area bouldering first ascents. A few of the ones below went up in 2012, or earlier, but the vast majority of the listed lines were done in 2013. The order of the list for each bouldering area is almost random. I just listed the lines as they came to mind, or I found them online, and then cut and pasted them into the right geographic area. This list will help me make sure that I don't forget lines when it's time to write the next guide, and give all of you some idea of the development that happened in the Lander area over the last year. But this list isn't comprehensive at this point. Many problems done during the last year by Chris, Justin, Tim, Tony, Danny, and others, are missing from this list. I'd love to include them, but I don't have the necessary information yet. Many mysterious new lines of chalked holds appeared at Oz, Devil's Kitchen, and the Rock Shop all last season. And hopefully I'll track down the names, grades, and first ascentionists of those lines eventually.
The List for 2013
Sweetwater
The Original Sweetwater V8/9 Collin Horvat
War Cry V12 Sweetwater Kyle Vassilopoulos
Horsepower V8 Sweetwater Chris Marley
Whispering Eye V5 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Old School V5 Sweetwater Rocks David Lloyd
New School V6 Sweetwater Rocks David Lloyd
Tappin' the Rockies V6 Dyno Sweetwater Rocks Jesse Brown
Schlitz V2 Sweetwater Rocks David Lloyd
Gluten Free Pizza V5 Sweetwater Ashley Lloyd
Over the Hump V5 Sweetwater Ashley Lloyd
Another Toe in the Ocean V4/5 Sweetwater David Lloyd
What Goes Boom V6 Sweetwater David Lloyd
Yellow Cake V3 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Sleestak Stand V4 Norwegian Wood Sector Sweetwater Rocks David Lloyd
Butterfly Traverse V7 Norwegian Wood Sector Sweetwater Rocks Ashley Lloyd
The Walls are Coming Down V1 NWS Sweetwater Rocks Ashley Lloyd
Mocha Machine V3/4 Coffee Wall Sweetwater Ashley Lloyd
The Roof is on Fire V5/6 NWS Sweetwater David Lloyd
This Bird Has Flown V7 NWS Sweetwater David Lloyd
Debaser V3 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Silver Bullet V6 HB Sweetwater Jesse Brown
The Banquet V7 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Runway V3 HB Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Horse Piss V6 Sweetwater Chris Marley
Beer Googles V4 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Slapping the Bass V3/4 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Dynomite V3 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Rollup V3 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Great Stone Slab V2 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Sunny Side Up V2 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
Crystals and Pistols V1 Sweetwater Jesse Brown
30 Total
The Rock Shop
In the Akasha V7/8 The Rock Shop Kerrek Stinson
Darth V3 The Rock Shop Bryan VanSickle
Stone Country V3/4 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Touch of Grey V5/6 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Ready to Go V4 The Rock Shop Ashley Lloyd
Just Getting Started V5 The Rock Shop Alex Johnston
The Boulder of Montana V5 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
My Mind's Eye Traverse V6 The Rock Shop Alex Johnston
Hard Rock Syndrome V2 The Rock Shop Alex Johnston
The Great Escape V5 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Giddyup V4 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Caroline Test V5 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Preemptive Strike V3 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Fear of Commitment V4 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Silence V3 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Seemingly Suspect V3 The Rock Shop V3 Alex Johnston
Little Roof V5 The Rock Shop Ashley Lloyd/Jesse Firestone
Captain Obvious V1/2 The Rock Shop Jesse Firestone
Pork Chop V6 The Rock Shop Bryan Vansickle
If, Then, Because V6/7 The Rock Shop Jesse Firestone
Chocolate Thunder V2 The Rock Shop Justin Iskra
Escape From Reality V5/6 The Rock Shop Justin Iskra
Snake Salad V6 The Rock Shop Ashley Lloyd
Two Snakes Traverse V5/6 The Rock Shop Ashley Lloyd
To the Pain V6 The Rock Shop Ashley Lloyd
Slippery Truth V1 The Rock Shop Sierra Lloyd
My Mind's Eye V1 The Rock Shop Alex Johnston
Rattlesnake Traverse V5 The Rock Shop Ashley Lloyd
Quality V1 The Rock Shop ?
Slopers to Quality V1, V3 The Rock Shop Ashley Lloyd
Weirdos From Another Planet V5 The Rock Shop Jesse Firestone
Pit Viper V4 The Rock Shop David Lloyd
Calen's Face V2/3 The Rock Shop Calen Campbell
C-3PO V7 Rock Shop Jesse Brown
R2D2 V7 Rock Shop Jesse Brown
Punctuality Award V2 Rock Shop Jesse Brown
Roasted V2 Rock Shop Jesse Brown
36 Total
Devil's Kitchen
Camera Girl V1 Devil's Kitchen Kyle Duba
The Devil's Double V7/8 Devil's Kitchen Collin Horvat
Wrecking Ball V9 Devil's Kitchen Justin Jaeger
Catacomb Left V7 Devil's Kitchen Justin Jaeger
Catacomb Right V5 Devil's Kitchen Justin Jaeger
Sitscratcher V7 Devil's Kitchen Jamie Emerson
Business Time V5 Devil's Kitchen Justin Iskra
Hatchet Left V7/8 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Hatchet Right V7 Devil's Kitchen Justin Iskra
Crystalis V6 Devil's Kitchen V6 Shannon
Viscountess Olive V? Devil's Kitchen Davin Bagdonas
Resurrection V6 Devil's Kitchen David Lloyd
Resurrection Arête V5 Devil's Kitchen Kerrek Stinson
Mosh Pit V4 Devil's Kitchen David Lloyd
Business Time V3 Devil's Kitchen ?
Guy on a Buffalo V3 Devil's Kitchen Justin Iskra
Satans Logic V3 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Bottoming Out V6 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Karl Malone V5 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Dynomite goes corporate V6 Devil's Kitchen ?
Two Minutes in Heaven V4 Devil's Kitchen
Distractions V7 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
The Mistress V7 Devil's Kitchen Justin Iskra
Baby Got Back V4 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Dances With Wolves V4 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
The Devil Makes Three V3 Devil's Kitchen Collin Horvat
Bologna Skin Arête V3 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Rolling Pin Arête V3 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
John Stockton V2 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Chopping Block V2 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Paradise Lost V2 Devil's Kitchen ?
Buffalo Wing V2 Devil's Kitchen Cameron Maier
Accidental Discharge V4 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
Driftwood V2 Devil's Kitchen Jesse Brown
28 Total, but this list only includes the new lines I know about.
The Northern Winds
The Anvil V7 The Northern Winds David Lloyd
There Can Be Only One V1 Three Waters David Lloyd
Black Boulder V3/4 Bear Valley Davin Bagdonas
Mini Miracle V2 Bear Valley David Lloyd
Mountain Flowers V4/5 Bear Valley David Lloyd
East Face V4/5 Bear Valley Davin Bagdonas
Wolf Tracks V? Bear Valley Jamie Emerson
7 Total, but this only includes two trips that I was able to make. Davin and Bryan have done a lot up there, and that isn't reflected in this short list.
The Source
Southern Smoke SDS V8 The Source Justin Iskra
El Sol V6 Tombstone Calen Campbell
The Mexican V3 Tombstone Calen Campbell
Warm Up Wall Lines V0-V3 Tombstone David Lloyd and Calen Campbell
Ferg V1 The Source Calen Campbell
Western Fire V5 The Source Jesse Brown
Anti-venom V6 The Source Calen Campbell
Snake Wrangler V4 The Source Ashley Lloyd
Longmire V4/5 The Source Calen Campbell
Long Arm of the Law V4/5 The Source Calen Campbell
The Arrowhead V6 The Tombstone Formation Ashley Lloyd
Do or Die V0 The Tombstone Formation David Lloyd
The Aftermath V5 HB The Tombstone Formation David Lloyd
13 Total
Oz
Eye in the Sky V6/7 Oz Chris Marley
Fog Horn Left V? Oz Chris Marley
Fog Horn Right V? Oz Chris Marley
The Six Sense V? Oz ?
The Walrus V5 Oz Justin Iskra
Flying Monkies V1 Oz Jesse Brown
Toto V6 Oz Jesse Brown
Kor Roof V6 Oz Jesse Brown
Warm Ups V0-2 Chris Marley
9 Total, but there are many more unidentified lines.
Sinks Canyon
Left is Alright V3 Lizard Lab Alan Pirie
The Pocket Problem V3 Falls Trail ?
The Clam, Slug Boulder Fairfield Hill V5/6 Ashley Lloyd
Right Cheek V1 Sinks Canyon Alan Pirie
Bob's Blob, Seven Problems V0-3 on block SE of Il Brutto in the trees Bob Branscomb
11 Total
The Roaring Fork
A Fine Line V2 Roaring Fork David Lloyd
Into the Woods V4 Roaring Fork David Lloyd
Above My Head V3 Roaring Fork David Lloyd
Warm Up Slab Ashley Lloyd
4 Total, but I'm missing some lines added by Jesse and Chris in 2012, and any lines added by Ana, Devlin or Alex last season.
Wild Iris
Soul Man V7 Wild Iris Jesse Brown
Smith Lake
Mormon Cricket V4 Smith Lake Jesse Brown
The number of difficult first ascents done by visiting climbers wasn't quite as high in 2013 as it was in 2012. But the number of high quality problems in the V4-V7 range near Lander increased considerably last year. Kyle's ascent of War Cry V12 stands out as the most significant new problem of 2013 based on its combination of quality and difficulty.
The list was put together using: Jesse Brown's 8a scorecard, Facebook posts, e-mails and texts sent to me by first ascentionists, this blog and a couple other blogs. If you know of some new problems that I'm missing, please send me information.
In conclusion, over 130 new boulder problems were put up in the Lander area during the last year! And so far we've been keeping up the same pace of development in 2014. More on the new lines (hopefully) soon...
Ferg V1 The Source Calen Campbell
Western Fire V5 The Source Jesse Brown
Anti-venom V6 The Source Calen Campbell
Snake Wrangler V4 The Source Ashley Lloyd
Longmire V4/5 The Source Calen Campbell
Long Arm of the Law V4/5 The Source Calen Campbell
The Arrowhead V6 The Tombstone Formation Ashley Lloyd
Do or Die V0 The Tombstone Formation David Lloyd
The Aftermath V5 HB The Tombstone Formation David Lloyd
13 Total
Oz
Eye in the Sky V6/7 Oz Chris Marley
Fog Horn Left V? Oz Chris Marley
Fog Horn Right V? Oz Chris Marley
The Six Sense V? Oz ?
The Walrus V5 Oz Justin Iskra
Flying Monkies V1 Oz Jesse Brown
Toto V6 Oz Jesse Brown
Kor Roof V6 Oz Jesse Brown
Warm Ups V0-2 Chris Marley
9 Total, but there are many more unidentified lines.
Sinks Canyon
Left is Alright V3 Lizard Lab Alan Pirie
The Pocket Problem V3 Falls Trail ?
The Clam, Slug Boulder Fairfield Hill V5/6 Ashley Lloyd
Right Cheek V1 Sinks Canyon Alan Pirie
Bob's Blob, Seven Problems V0-3 on block SE of Il Brutto in the trees Bob Branscomb
11 Total
The Roaring Fork
A Fine Line V2 Roaring Fork David Lloyd
Into the Woods V4 Roaring Fork David Lloyd
Above My Head V3 Roaring Fork David Lloyd
Warm Up Slab Ashley Lloyd
4 Total, but I'm missing some lines added by Jesse and Chris in 2012, and any lines added by Ana, Devlin or Alex last season.
Wild Iris
Soul Man V7 Wild Iris Jesse Brown
Smith Lake
Mormon Cricket V4 Smith Lake Jesse Brown
The number of difficult first ascents done by visiting climbers wasn't quite as high in 2013 as it was in 2012. But the number of high quality problems in the V4-V7 range near Lander increased considerably last year. Kyle's ascent of War Cry V12 stands out as the most significant new problem of 2013 based on its combination of quality and difficulty.
The list was put together using: Jesse Brown's 8a scorecard, Facebook posts, e-mails and texts sent to me by first ascentionists, this blog and a couple other blogs. If you know of some new problems that I'm missing, please send me information.
In conclusion, over 130 new boulder problems were put up in the Lander area during the last year! And so far we've been keeping up the same pace of development in 2014. More on the new lines (hopefully) soon...
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