Reminiscing on Weekends Past

We didn't get to go climbing outside this weekend.  Weather and circumstance just didn't align in our favor.  But I used the day to get as much work done as possible.  And for the first time in many weeks I can spare an hour to write a blog post.  The last few weeks have been good ones!  Let's reminisce.

Ashley got the first ascent of a traverse problem called "Gluten Free Pizza" at Sweetwater.  It tops out up the left arete and into the gap on the left without touching the left wall.  A powerful low and crimpy crux leads to a surprisingly pumpy finish.  Exactly what Ashley looks for in a boulder problem!  

 Ana came out with us for her first day of bouldering in a while, and we had stellar conditions.  It was a great session despite the fact that we left with more projects than we finished.

 We all worked on "Gluten Free Pizza" and the "Glutino" project seen below.

 By the time we moved on to the Ocean boulder we were all worked.  None of us had the core tension, endurance, or finger strength to get anything new done.  But we all gave it a good effort.

Ana on "Debaser."

 That might have been the last perfect weekend day of this season out at Sweetwater, but I'm still somewhat hopeful that we can get another.

One windy day, we were able to find shelter on the Falls Trail.  Just looking for something new to do, we added a sit start to Rio's Face that uses the boulder to the right.  Ashley did it by only using underclings.

 My method used two kneebars.  It doesn't add too much difficulty, but it does require more endurance than the low stand start.

Just west of Rio's Face is a tall south facing slab.  The pocket problem on the left is about V3.

                           

The pockets were pretty clean, so I don't think it was a first ascent.  It's worth trying if you're in the area.  Ashley came close enough on "Blind Eye" to decide that it's worth working on some more.  I've begun working on a couple "Blind Eye"variations.

We've had a couple other good weekends, but I've got some papers to grade before getting some sleep.  It's time for me to sign off.

But if you have any time to spare, I highly recommend watching "Wind and Rattlesnakes."  It tells the story of Lander climbing, and Kyle also included a section on the new wave of bouldering development.  Kyle put a lot of work into the film.  Often a day of effort on his part lead to just seconds of film within the finished movie.  Kyle came out bouldering with us for four days just to film the parts that Jesse and I were in.  It was fun to be included, and see the process of its creation.  Wyoming in general, and Lander in particular, is a special place that inspires art in many forms.  "Wind and Rattlesnakes" is a work of art and obviously a labor of love.
Wind & Rattlesnakes from Kyle Duba on Vimeo.
If you like it, consider buying a copy on DVD or giving Kyle a donation.