Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Return to Oz

 It took me too long to get back to this place, but I'm so glad that I did.  We spent a gorgeous day with Chris, Tony, and Will at the summit of the mountain.  Chris has been the most active developer at Oz, and a few others have added problems as well.

Tony and Will checking out a difficult project that Chris has been working on.
 The area offers an abundance of solid featured overhangs with views that are difficult to grasp, much less convey.
 The bouldering highlight of our day was getting the second and third ascents of Chris' V6/7 "Eye in the Sky."  It's a very interesting problem to work out, with different sequences for tall and short climbers.
 I didn't want to go home.
 Whenever the weather and my schedule allow it, this is where I'll want to be for a while.

Our original plan for the day was to visit Devil's Kitchen, but we changed plans once we became aware of possible access issues up there.  Here's a quick explanation of what I've been able to find out about Devil's Kitchen access so far.  I've contacted Wind River Fish & Game, and the BIA office in Ft. Washakie.  They report that no roads are closed in the Dickinson Park area.  But there is a new sign that implies that the road might be closed, and Allen's Ranch has turned back at least one group of climbers and told them that the road to Devil's Kitchen was closed.  Until everyone is on the same page, access remains somewhat questionable.  I'll post more information soon.


Davin said...

Great looking stuff!

Hopefully Sherman will show up one of these days and share his problems out there. Would be good to get his problems recorded in the event of a future guide and decide if it will be called OZ or whatever Sherman named the place?

Hopefully the Kitchen works out. Good luck up there getting access sorted.

Lloyd Family said...

It's such a good area! I'd love to see Sherman's lines and know what he called the area. After the area is somewhat developed, I'll probably just start calling Oz by its official map name.

Good News! After many phone calls, I've been told that the road to Devil's Kitchen is open to permit holders. Sounds like it might be a sensitive issue though. Climbers visiting the Kitchen should buy a permit, keep a low profile, and not take future access for granted. Directions are in my guide, but I'll be recommending that boulderers who want to visit the Kitchen should try to get a tour from someone who knows the area.