Monday, January 23, 2012

Sunday on the Sandstone

Getting outside wasn't a sure thing this weekend. I had a lot of work to do, and the weather forecast looked cold and breezy. But the skies were clear on Sunday morning, and the breeze wasn't too strong, so we decided to try some toprope climbs on the Sandstone Buttress.

We warmed up on "Dorsal." Then we climbed "Code Blue," and finished with "Road Test." "Road Test" is a fun bouldery route which took us a couple tries to send clean. We enjoyed all three routes, and I highly recommend them. They have interesting features, on comfortable sandstone. It's fun to pull through moves that feel very insecure when you're on a toprope!

Approaching the crux on "Road Test."

Higher on the wall, two climbers spent the day multi-pitching. I couldn't identify what route they were on. It might have been a first ascent.

The topropes were a lot of fun, but they didn't provide a full work out. We hiked up the hill, and ended the session by working on the "B1 Traverse" on the Dolomite Band. It's a difficult problem for short climbers. We found separate sequences to do all the moves, but Ashley will need another session (and I might need two) to send the crux after climbing through the beginning.

Ashley approaching the crux of the "B1 Traverse."

For the past few years now, I've made an effort to post my climbing activities or some climbing thoughts on a weekly basis. This approach has provided a somewhat scientific transect of my climbing life. The interesting stuff is all here, and it's evenly mixed in with the not so interesting sessions.

Going forward I've decided to change my approach. Rather than write 18 posts about our next 18 weekend sessions in Sinks Canyon this spring, or committing philosophy because I feel forced to, rather than inspired to, I'll only be posting when I have something that I feel is worth sharing. With all the extra time I save, I'm going to begin work on a bouldering guide for the Lander area. The timeline isn't set yet, and I'm not even sure what form the final product will take, but I'm committing myself to finishing a guide. If you know about bouldering in the Lander area, and have something to contribute, please contact me. Photos, history, opinions on grades and star ratings, what areas should be included or which should be excluded, I'll be looking for information and support. Thanks in advance.


Davin said...

Bouldering Guide?

Very good! I'll have to drive up and spend a weekend with you to drop off a pile of maps and descriptions. I can frantically point out things on maps and show old vague photos of now aging men on now old boulders. Long overdue and really exciting to hear your taking it on.

How far out will the guide book reach?

jacob said...

i like your blog the way it is, but i know that it probably takes a lot of time. anyway, i'll miss the weekly update.
and good luck with the guide.

Lloyd Family said...

That would be great Davin! At the moment, I think the guide should could include anywhere that's a reasonable day trip from Lander that's on accessible public land. Wild Iris, Sinks Canyon, the Source, Torrey Valley?, select areas at Sweetwater, the Falcon's Lair and the Rock Shop after we've established most of the classics this Summer, and Devil's Kitchen if Jesse wants it documented.

Thanks Jacob, I'm glad you've been enjoying it.

Brian Fabel said...

I love the frequency of your posts! I always look forward to them after being outside for the weekend ;-)

jacob said...

what's the rock shop? sounds like there might be some rock there. A new spot?

Lloyd Family said...

The Rock Shop is an area just starting to get developed a few miles from Wild Iris. It's a lot like Red Feather. Granite boulders spread out around various small formations in a nice open forest. The rock quality is amazing though, with solid crimps.

Where The Road Opens! said...

Can't wait, love these posts but its always good to step back and project your time on other things as well. We need to get out soon, also I have retrieved the boulder session photos from our last climbing adventure in Sweet Water. they look grand, ill get them your way soon. :)

Lloyd Family said...

Thanks, I'm looking forward to seeing the photos you got. We should get out sometime soon. I'm hoping the weather will cooperate.