Friday, November 5, 2010

Recent Happenings

On Halloween, I displayed a pumpkin showing a terrifying scene. As I carved, I imagined a girl falling off a highball boulder problem. Her hands slipping off over an awful talus landing. Her spotter standing back, too far away to help her. I thought the carving turned out alright, but the trick or treaters didn't get it. "Is that Jurassic Park?" was one question I got.

The day before, I went out with Davin and Chris to some boulders that Chris has started developing in Sinks Canyon. We warmed up on a moderate highball with a spooky top out which was first climbed by Tom R. and Steve B. and called "Purple Heart."

Chris climbing "Purple Heart."

Davin getting the second ascent of the day.

We found what looked like a witch's broom next to the boulder.

Then Chris showed us the moves on his classic, and very difficult, first ascent called "War Tactics."

Davin worked the line.

It felt beyond my reach, but I noticed the climbable crack just to the right. I used the witch's broom to brush off some cobwebs, sat down back in the alcove, and hand jammed my way out to the top out of "War Tactics." I'm calling the problem "Voo Tactics." It isn't great, but I had fun on it.

We made a trip up canyon where Chris made great progress on a long standing project.

We walked out in the dark, with lightning flashing over the ridges. It was a good session, imbued with Halloween atmosphere.

On Halloween, I had a short session at another area developed by Chris called The Stash. It's a small area with a few good sandstone problems off the highway. My favorite is "Cow Pies and Rattlesnakes." I worked out all the moves, and then a small storm chased us out. I'll be heading back to finish it.
A photo of the short dyno to the top.

I found out about The Stash by picking up a copy of a topo Chris had made for the Wild Iris climbing shop. Chris has been developing a lot of great problems, and his topos inspired me to draw up a map of the area where I brushed boulders last summer.

I left some copies at the Wild Iris shop.

Since my last post we've spent a couple fun days on the cliffs in Sinks Canyon. The weather has been warm all fall, so we are just entering what I consider the Sinks sport climbing season. Conditions are starting to get really good up there, and we have a lot of projects to work on.

Climbing never ends.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Hey David, that tall moderate near War tactics is called Purple Heart. IT was put up by Dr. tom and Steve B. some years ago. Notice at the base of the problem a small stump. The thin vertical seam to the right is undone i was told.
Lets boulder soon!
Keep posting, love the pictures.

Jesse B.