Thursday, July 22, 2010

New Problems at the Source

Climbing "Ice Cream."

Since the last post we've spent two days at the Source and three at Wild Iris. Most of our time at the Source has been spent doing first ascents, but our goal for today was to climb "The Tombstone." I'm pretty sure Chris found the boulder, and did the first ascent. Let me know if I'm mistaken.

Hiking in.

I climbed "The Tombstone" from the stand start first, which is about V4, and then did it from the sit-start, which is probably V6 or 7. It's a fantastic problem, one of my favorites in the Lander area. Great find Chris! Unfortunately the dappled lighting didn't lend itself to good photos.

At the top of "The Tombstone."

Ashley wasn't psyched on the height of "The Tombstone," but she saw a lip traverse behind it that she wanted to climb.

Ashley climbing "Grouchy Smurf."

I think she's trying to get revenge on tall first ascentionists and highballers by putting up the scrunchiest problems possible. After I thought I had done it, she told me the obvious foot flake seen in the left side of the photo above is off! A slopey, scrunchy, lowball, lip traverse, that's also contrived. I don't know what else to say.

After I'd finished on "The Tombstone" and Ashley had climbed "Grouchy Smurf" I scouted for some more problems. Found a few possibilities on top of the formation that I want to return to, but also found a couple lower problems. One looked like it would suite Ashley, and one was more my type. We began at the boulder that looked good for Ashley. We brushed it off, and just as I expected Ashley got the first ascent.

"Sassy Smurf" begins on a sloping ledge, and felt about V4.

I sent it a few tries later. It's a good problem.

From there we hiked to the west side of the formation where I'd seen a tall crack problem up a patina covered face. Small but perfectly positioned feet allow it to go at a physically moderate grade of V3, but the problem feels really committing, and it's over an uneven landing. This is as high as I'd go without a spot during my post send posing.
"Ice Cream" V3/4

Earlier in the week we went to the first area we began developing at the Source. We planned to start doing problems up on the formation, but got distracted by the undone lines and sit starts at the base. We started on some small blocks with perfect patina holds.

Ashley climbing her first ascent "We are the Littles" V3

It tops out above Ashley's left hand in the photo above. It's a low line, but it's really fun.

I climbed a line coming out of the pit. A vertical V1 or 2 called "Meana Pitina."

We also did a short line left of "Big Stick" called "Misquoted." It goes up above my camera case in the photo.

I got what I think is the second ascent of "Walk Softly" which I'd call V7, but the sit starts to "Teddy" and "Misquoted" will have to wait for a stronger effort.

At the Iris we worked and redpointed a variety of climbs.

"Ambuscado" is shady and steeper than most Wild Iris climbs, but also still a bit chossy.

Ashley looking at one of her favorites "The Guns I'll Never Own."

An unidentified climber on my favorite redpoint of the week "Zorro."

That's all I've got right now, but Wind River bouldering will be coming soon.

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