Monday, February 1, 2010

Ashley Takes the Lead

Ashley visualizing the moves on "Hardware" last week.

After years of bouldering, Ashley has had some difficulty getting used to leading sport routes again. She started trying a few leads last Summer, but when the stress of the school year hit, she decided that she didn't want the added effort of fighting fear each weekend. So she's been spending the majority of our sport climbing days doing toprope laps on my projects.

But recently an article on fighting phobias ran in Time magazine. It said that one way to reduce fear is for people to be put into scary situations, that bring out the fear, but then turn out alright. So Ashley forced herself to take a couple lead falls on "Hardware" last week. It was a scary situation for her that turned out fine, and it looks like the method helped quite a bit. This week she almost redpointed "Hardware," and took a short fall while trying.
Ashley taking the sharp end on "Hardware."

After getting "Hardware" off of my project list, I realized that I have so many other projects to get back on, areas to check out, and boulders to develop, that I was beginning to lose track of them all. So I compiled a list of climbing related plans on a notecard. Over 22 things that could keep me busy for years. So much to do... hope I've got a lot of time.


Anonymous said...

Hell yeah Ashley! Nice job, i too am now scared of lead climbing and never really used to be. Hope Y'all are happy up in Lander!

-Aaron H

Davin said...

Nice work getting through the fear Ashley!
Now that you guys are in Wyoming that list of things to do, climbing wise, will get out of hand. My list is good for 20 lifetimes and yours will be too. Just think, if you and Ashley both have a list, 40 lifetimes will do. Have fun developing, can't wait to get on your new stuff.

Lloyd Family said...

It's good to hear from you Aaron, and it's been fun seeing you at the rocks in various blogs. I'll make sure Ashley sees your comment.

You're right about there being a lot more rock than time, Davin. Interest in developing and rediscovering the bouldering around Lander is growing though. People are getting out, and starting to share information. The sandstone in Sinks has had some recent traffic. Hopefully there will be a lot of new problems going up when more snow melts.