Colorado Climbing Christmas

We spent our Christmas break with Ashley's family in Colorado Springs, and were able to climb on three days before the Canadian cold front came in. But before we left we climbed for a day in Sinks Canyon, spending most of our time toproping "Mo."

We drove past Sweetwater Rocks on the way, and I was surprised by the lack of snow. There may have been some climbable days there in December.

But the area was snowed in when we drove back, and the wind was so intense I decided not to pull over for a picture.

On Christmas afternoon we took advantage of incredible weather at the most convenient bouldering in Colorado Springs, Ute Valley.

It's on a ridge above a housing development within town.

We warmed up on the Hueco Boulder, and ended up spending the whole session there.

The boulder is small, but very nicely featured. Every problem on it climbs like a Hueco problem, and the top out isn't high so Ashley committed to the dynos.

I bashed my elbow on the rock, and was making a bloody mess. The first aid kit was forgotten in our sport climbing gear, but I had a Three Ball Climbing sticker from the CWC comp in my bag and some tissues which made a good bandage.


We got back to Ute Valley for another session a couple days later. I climbed "Galley Traverse" on my first attempt after working out the moves. I'd been on the problem days before we moved to Wyoming, and hadn't been able to do it. Unexpected improvement.

We ended the day on the Tie-breaker boulder. It has a good traverse that Ashley did in both directions.


A climber highballing at Ute Valley.


On our final day of good Colorado weather we decided to check out some Dakota sandstone bouldering west of Pueblo. Unfortunately all the sandstone in the region is on private land. John Gill was active there for many years, and he discovered many exceptional problems and areas. Most of these areas are now closed, but I'm under the impression that the owner of this one place allows climbing access. We weren't able to find contact info for the owner (though I did try.) Newlin Creek was a backup spot, we could visit if things didn't look good. But when we checked it out there were no signs posted along the faint access trail, no livestock or houses in the area, and the rock had fresh chalk on it. So we climbed.

We warmed up on a well featured block.

Climbed some short roofs.

And a good line on this boulder.



We climbed most of the uncontrived roof lines in one session.

The area has a lot of traverses, and many possible dynos. John Gill had the vision, and Dakota sandstone is the perfect medium for gymnastic movement. The small canyon has incredible stone, and a beautiful, subtle, intimate atmosphere. Like climbing in a natural garden. A quarry not too far away is cutting up Dakota stone for landscaping rocks, and I'd hate to see any of Gill's areas destroyed by quarrying. Hopefully the Access Fund will do all it can to acquire these historic areas if they ever have the opportunity.

I hope you all had good holidays too. The days will only be getting longer.

Holiday Sessions

Christmas didn't fall early enough in the school break for us to make a trip to Hueco this year. We spent a week with Ashley's family in Colorado Springs instead. As it turned out, we did as much climbing, left the girls at home (thanks Pam!), and had better weather than we got at Hueco last year. Our first session was at the Snake Pit Area, Garden of the Gods, on Christmas afternoon.

After warming on the Nose Lunge Block, we turned our attention to the Traverse Boulder. Ashley got really excited about the lowball traverses.

I found a dyno to play on. It was pretty easy one handed, but for full V5 glory, the guidebook said I had to do it double handed.


The double felt awkward. I was jumping into the rock, but launching backwards as well, which made the grab difficult. I didn't get the problem I wanted on Christmas.

All I got was a bloody flapper.

On Sunday, I super-glued tape over my finger, and we checked out the Buddha and Berthoud Caves in Castlewood Canyon.

The rock there varies quite a bit from awful choss to perfect turtle shell textured patina that feels like Dakota sandstone.

Most of the climbing is on cobbled conglomerate that falls somewhere in between choss and perfection. Both the cobbles and the huecos left behind when they fall out make good climbing holds. The Buddha and Berthoud Caves were sheltered from the breeze, and caught direct sunlight all day. Perfect for a winter day.
Ashley warming up on "Sometimes Wet."

Ashley climbing "Phillip's Problem"

We climbed a lot of problems in Buddha Cave and then moved on to Berthoud Cave. Benningfield's star ratings didn't suite us. All the single star problems ended up being our favorites.
Here I am working the moves on "After Berthoud." I was trying to keep up with Ashley, but my skin gave out before I could send it.

One of the favorite problems we climbed was "Berthoud Canal." It had one move that was really long for Ashley, but she caught the dyno, and then asked me to put down the camera so I could spot. After the dyno, you heal hook by your head in order to reach left and then get to the "top out" five feet above the lip.




On Tuesday, we were quite surprised by how good the bouldering is at Ute Valley Park in Colorado Springs. We had been there many years ago, and all I remembered was a very small area with sandy moderates. Equipped with a guidebook written by Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, that I bought at the Mountain Chalet, we climbed and attempted many classic problems. The sandstone is soft, but it has incredible features. I'd recommend staying off the rocks for a day or two after rain so the holds don't brake off. Weather permitting we'll be heading back on our next trip to the Springs.
Ashley warming up on the Galley Boulder.


V4 doesn't get much better than the problem pictured below. It's called "Wedgie."

Ashley climbing "Wedgie"

My favorite ascent of the day was when I accidently sandbagged some locals who were working on "Floater." The fact that it was unintentional made it even more fun. They were nice guys who were just at the wrong place at the wrong time. I shot this picture as they walked away. I'm sure they'll send it soon.

We had great sessions without driving to El Paso to get them. 2008 was a good year, and I'm excited to see what bouldering 2009 will bring. My only resolution at the moment is to get back to Needle Peak.